National Park Service Designations

Across the United States there are 59 national parks. In addition, there are hundreds of scenic national rivers, preserves, marine monuments, battlefields, historic sites, memorials, wildernesses, wildlife refuges, and other protected public lands managed by the Department of the Interior. There are 28 different types of designations in 417 units that are all considered to be “national parks”; so, when we announced that we’d seen them all, we were referring to America’s 59 national parks, not the entire National Park System which comprises them all. In that spirit, we thought it would be fun to breakdown the unique aspects of public lands (giving us a chance to post photographs from some of the other designations we’ve explored outside of our project that are equally worthy of visiting.) In no particular order, here is an outline of the types protections governing America's public lands... 

National Parks

U.S. National Parks are given the greatest protection by the Department of the Interior and can only be established by acts of Congress. Managed by the National Park Service, they aim to protect vast areas of land, wilderness resources, cultural heritage, and wildlife habitats for the benefit and enjoyment of future generations.

 

National Monuments

Managed by the National Park Service, U.S. national monuments protect natural, cultural, historic archaeological, scenic, geologic and other scientific and educational values. Several official national parks were first protected as national monuments. As of the date of this post, there are 117 protected national monuments in America.

 
House on Fire Ruins in Cedar Mesa, Bears Ears National Monument in Utah. | Photo credit: Jonathan Irish

House on Fire Ruins in Cedar Mesa, Bears Ears National Monument in Utah. | Photo credit: Jonathan Irish

White Pocket, Vermillion Cliffs National Monument, Utah | Photo by Jonathan Irish

White Pocket, Vermillion Cliffs National Monument, Utah | Photo by Jonathan Irish

The Wave, Vermillion Cliffs National Monument, Utah | Photo by Jonathan Irish

The Wave, Vermillion Cliffs National Monument, Utah | Photo by Jonathan Irish

White Pocket,Vermillion Cliffs National Monument, Utah | Photo by Jonathan Irish

White Pocket,Vermillion Cliffs National Monument, Utah | Photo by Jonathan Irish

White Pocket, Vermillion Cliffs National Monument | Photo by Jonathan Irish

White Pocket, Vermillion Cliffs National Monument | Photo by Jonathan Irish

 

National Trails

National trails encompass historic, scenic, and recreational trails that are designated by Congress that provide interconnected trail networks that weave throughout the nation. As of the date of this post, there are 19 historic trails in America

The Appalachian National Scenic Trail runs from Georgia to Maine and through Great Smoky Mountains National Park in North Carolina/Tennessee. | Photo by Stefanie Payne

The Appalachian National Scenic Trail runs from Georgia to Maine and through Great Smoky Mountains National Park in North Carolina/Tennessee. | Photo by Stefanie Payne

The Appalachian National Scenic Trail runs from Georgia to Maine and through Shenandoah National Park in Virginia. | Photo by Jonathan Irish

The Appalachian National Scenic Trail runs from Georgia to Maine and through Shenandoah National Park in Virginia. | Photo by Jonathan Irish

 

National Wilderness

Managed by the Bureau of Land Management, national wilderness areas maintain untamed areas throughout the nation. They represent exceptional ecological, geological or scenic attributes, and can be present in national parks, wildlife refuges, national forests, and public lands. Wilderness designation insists that logging, off-road vehicle use, and development are a no-go. As of the date of this post, there are 762 national wilderness areas, crossing more than 106 million acres in America.

Buckskin Gulch, one of the world's longest continuous slot canyons, winds 16 miles through sandstone walls in the northern stretch of the Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness in Utah. | Photo by Jonathan Irish

Buckskin Gulch, one of the world's longest continuous slot canyons, winds 16 miles through sandstone walls in the northern stretch of the Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness in Utah. | Photo by Jonathan Irish

Rock art seen in the Paria Canyon. | Photo by Jonathan Irish

Rock art seen in the Paria Canyon. | Photo by Jonathan Irish

Buckskin Gulch in Utah. | Photo by Jonathan Irish

Buckskin Gulch in Utah. | Photo by Jonathan Irish

Mount Denali captured from outside of the national park in the Denali Wilderness. | Photo credit: Jonathan Irish

Mount Denali captured from outside of the national park in the Denali Wilderness. | Photo credit: Jonathan Irish

 

National Wildlife Refuges

Managed by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service, wildlife refuges in the U.S. aim to protect fish, wildlife, and plant populations. Each state and territory in America has at least one wildlife refuge within its boundaries. Wildlife refuges offer plenty of recreational opportunities including paddling, hiking, scenic drives, as well as fishing and hunting opportunities. As of the date of this post, there are 562 national wildlife refuges and 38 wetland management districts protected national wildlife refuges in America.

Migrating snow geese in flight at Blackwater Wildlife Refuge on Maryland's Eastern Shore. | Photo by Stefanie Payne

Migrating snow geese in flight at Blackwater Wildlife Refuge on Maryland's Eastern Shore. | Photo by Stefanie Payne

Snow geese at rest at Blackwater Wildlife Refuge on Maryland's Eastern Shore. | Photo by Stefanie Payne

Snow geese at rest at Blackwater Wildlife Refuge on Maryland's Eastern Shore. | Photo by Stefanie Payne

Bald Eagle at Blackwater Wildlife Refuge on Maryland's Eastern Shore. | Photo by Stefanie Payne

Bald Eagle at Blackwater Wildlife Refuge on Maryland's Eastern Shore. | Photo by Stefanie Payne

 

National Wild and Scenic Rivers

National Wild and Scenic Rivers preserve river waterways in their purest state; meaning the free-flowing streams have never been dammed or otherwise obstructed. As of the date of this post, there are more than 200 National Wild and Scenic Rivers in America located in 39 states.

Timelapse video of our paddling adventure along the Noatak River, a designated Wild and Scenic River, in Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve in Alaska. 

 

National Seashores and National Lakeshores

National seashores comprise protected salt water areas and surrounding islands; and national lake shores preserve shorelines found in natural freshwater lake environments. As of the date of this post, there are 10 national seashores that can be found on the coasts of the Atlantic, the Gulf of Mexico, and the Pacific Ocean.     

The Cypress Tree Tunnel at Point Reyes National Seashore, California | Photo by Jonathan Irish

The Cypress Tree Tunnel at Point Reyes National Seashore, California | Photo by Jonathan Irish

The Point Reyes Lighthouse at Point Reyes National Seashore, California | Photo by Jonathan Irish

The Point Reyes Lighthouse at Point Reyes National Seashore, California | Photo by Jonathan Irish

 

National Historic Sites

Managed by the National Park Service, national historic sites offer a glimpse into the people, cultures, history, and events that have shaped the nation's history. As of the date of this post, there are 90 National Historic Sites, 78 of which are official National Park Service units. 

Kaloko-Honokōhau National Historic Park, Big Island, Islands of Hawai'i | Photo by Jonathan Irish

Kaloko-Honokōhau National Historic Park, Big Island, Islands of Hawai'i | Photo by Jonathan Irish

Kaloko-Honokōhau National Historic Park, Big Island, Islands of Hawai'i | Photo by Jonathan Irish

Kaloko-Honokōhau National Historic Park, Big Island, Islands of Hawai'i | Photo by Jonathan Irish

Kaloko-Honokōhau National Historic Park, Big Island, Islands of Hawai'i | Photo by Jonathan Irish

Kaloko-Honokōhau National Historic Park, Big Island, Islands of Hawai'i | Photo by Jonathan Irish

 

National Battlefields

National battlefields commemorate America’s military history, protecting places where battles were fought to in the name of the U.S. Constitution. As of the date of this post, there are 11 National Battlefields, 9 National Military Parks, 4 National Battlefield Parks, and 1 National Battlefield Site currently protected in the U.S. 

Antietam National Battlefield, Maryland. | Photo credit: Wikipedia

Antietam National Battlefield, Maryland. | Photo credit: Wikipedia

 

National Memorials

America’s national memorials, called Sites of Remembrance, honor tragic events that have affected the nation, and largely include areas in and around the nation’s capitol; and are found elsewhere throughout the country. As of the date of this post, there are 30 national memorials administered by the National Park Service. 

Mount Rushmore in South Dakota | Photo by Stefanie Payne

Mount Rushmore in South Dakota | Photo by Stefanie Payne

 

National Preserves

Activities like hunting, fishing, or oil and gas extraction may be permitted in national preserves if they don’t jeopardize the park’s natural resources. National preserves are commonly found in Alaska as a provision of the Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act of 1980, enabling trapping, hunting, and subsistence communities to retain rights to land use. 

Great Sand Dunes Preserve, Colorado | Photo by Jonathan Irish

Great Sand Dunes Preserve, Colorado | Photo by Jonathan Irish

Glacier Bay Preserve, Alaska | Photo by Stefanie Payne

Glacier Bay Preserve, Alaska | Photo by Stefanie Payne

Wrangell-St. Elias Preserve, Alaska | Photo by Jonathan Irish

Wrangell-St. Elias Preserve, Alaska | Photo by Jonathan Irish

Arial view of Katmai National Preserve while en route to the national park | Photo by Jonathan Irish

Arial view of Katmai National Preserve while en route to the national park | Photo by Jonathan Irish

 

See a complete list of designated areas that make up the National Park System, provided by the National Park Service. A snapshot: 

Full checklist of National Park designations. Credit: National Park Service. 

7 Summer Road Trips in the U.S. National Parks

First seen on the Red Bulletin

SUMMER IS A TIME TO PACK UP THE CAR AND SEEK OUT NEW ADVENTURES. AFTER ALL, THE BEST PART OF TRAVEL IS OFTEN TIMES THE ACT OF GETTING THERE ITSELF. SO HERE ARE SOME STUNNING ROUTES WORTH EXPLORING WHILE ROAD TRIPPIN’ TO YOUR NEXT NATIONAL PARK VACATION. 

Believe it or not, there was a time in our not-so-distant past when there were no paved roads bridging the gap between civilization and the North American wilderness. Then in the 1930s, during the Great Depression, the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) was formed under the watch of President Franklin Delano Roosevelt. In an effort to boost the economy and the nation’s workforce, the CCC began building infrastructure in the great outdoors that would carefully grow yet still preserve the wild for future generations to enjoy. Pretty darn smart, that FDR.

While cities and towns continue to grow rapidly around the National Parks, they remain mostly rugged. There are, however, amazing roads that weave throughout each park, allowing anyone of any age to experience nature, wildlife, mountains, forests, rivers, streams and wide-open spaces that we might otherwise never get a chance to see.

In 2016, we road tripped to all 59 National Parks and got to sample the best of America’s great driving roads (gallery) in and around each one. In no particular order, here are seven of our favorites.

 

GOING-TO-THE-SUN ROAD, GLACIER NATIONAL PARK, MONTANA

Going-to-the-Sun Road in Glacier National Park, Montana.

Going-to-the-Sun Road in Glacier National Park, Montana.

When Governor Frank H. Cooney dedicated Glacier National Park's Going-to-the-Sun Road in 1933, he offered this sentiment: “There is no highway which will give the seer, the lover of grandeur of the Creator’s handiwork, more thrills, more genuine satisfaction deep in his being, than will a trip over this road.” His sentiment was clearly right on as this thoroughfare has become the park’s main attraction and is known as one of America’s most iconic scenic driving roads. 

Bisecting the one-million-acre wilderness, the 50-mile drive starts at the west entrance and courses into the parkland passing evergreen forests, glacier lakes and endless, stunning views of snowcapped peaks. Panoramic vistas don’t get any better than they do when you are standing at Logan Pass, where you’ll find yourself surrounded by breathtaking scenery amid what is called “the backbone of America” (aka the Continental Divide), separating the watersheds that feed into the Pacific and Atlantic oceans. You can complete the drive on this well-paved road in just two hours, but you can guarantee that with so much beauty to behold, it will take much, much longer. 

 

TRAIL RIDGE ROAD, ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK, COLORADO

Trail Ridge Road in Colorado -- the Highway to the Sky!

Trail Ridge Road in Colorado -- the Highway to the Sky!

Trail Ridge Road (U.S. 34) is Rocky Mountain National Park’s “Highway Into The Sky.” It starts in Estes Park on the east side of the Rockies, and ends in Grand Lake on the west side of the park, topping out at 12,183 feet in elevation (two-miles above sea level) and crossing the Continental Divide. At this high vantage point, it is just you and the atmospheric rooftop of the Rocky Mountain dreamscape, which is rich with forests, wildlife and pieces of Earth left behind from the last Ice Age. 

 

HIGHWAY 50, GREAT BASIN NATIONAL PARK, NEVADA

Highway 50, just outside of Great Basin National Park in Nevada. 

Highway 50, just outside of Great Basin National Park in Nevada

Spoiler alert: this road isn’t in the National Park but it is just around the bend from Great Basin National Park in eastern Nevada. It rivals Route 66 in terms of historical wonder as it was an original Pony Express Route in the late 1800s. Dubbed by LIFE Magazine as ‘the Loneliest Road in America,’ it is a prime spot to capture picturesque southwest long-road shots leading into the landscape to share on social media, while fueling your wildest road trip dreams.

 

THE ROAD TO HANA, HALEAKALA NATIONAL PARK, HAWAII

The Road to Hana on the island of Maui in the Islands of Hawai'i is a total dreamscape! 

The Road to Hana on the island of Maui in the Islands of Hawai'i is a total dreamscape! 

The Road to Hana between Maui’s North Shore and Haleakala National Park is the most famous driving road on the Hawai'ian Islands. Along the 54-mile highway, a canopy cover of lush Hawaiian rainforest enfolds visitors with endless waterfalls, pools and a few cool landmarks to stop at along the way. This is not an easy road for the impatient as there are approximately 59 one-lane bridges and 620 curves slowing the course. But you are on the island of Maui after all, so take your time and enjoy the aloha spirit.

 

BADLANDS LOOP ROAD, BADLANDS NATIONAL PARK, SOUTH DAKOTA

Badlands Loop Road in Badlands National Park in South Dakota.

Badlands Loop Road in Badlands National Park in South Dakota.

Windows down, music up, warm wind blowing across the grasslands…the driving roads in and around Badlands National Park are what road trip adventures are made of. Badlands Loop Road is the main vein in the park offering plenty of opportunities to take photographs that capture the feel of any great American road trip, while providing access to visitor centers, hiking areas and nearly 30 overlooks that peer onto the mysterious sandstone formations. Along Sage Creek Rim Road, you’re in for a little more of a rugged ride en route to areas that have denser wildlife habitats which are heavily populated with bighorn sheep, bison and prairie dogs. Look for Robert’s Prairie Dog Town, the most populous “town” in the park.

 

RIVER ROAD…AND MORE, BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK, TEXAS

River Road in Big Bend National Park in the great state of Texas! 

River Road in Big Bend National Park in the great state of Texas! 

Big Bend is a huge park and with more than 100 miles of paved scenic roadways. Anyone with a car can explore the landscape of the Chihuahuan Desert and see some of the very special features that make Big Bend so special — fascinating geology, over 450 bird species and, of course (being that you are in an International Dark Sky Park) those dark skies and starry nights. We recommend going off road to explore River Road which skirts the Rio Grande River on the U.S.-Mexico border. You’ll get a chance to wet your beak with road trip fever as you drive into Terlingua from the northern town of Alpine. The highway, which seems to disappear into the weathered Texas landscape, is nothing short of epic. 

THE ALASKA (FORMERLY THE ALCAN) HIGHWAY, AKA THE ROAD TO ALASKA

Heading north on the Alaska Highway! 

Heading north on the Alaska Highway! 

The Alaska Highway is a freeway of dreams for road trippers. The two-lane historic asphalt belt winds 1,520 miles from Dawson Creek in British Columbia (about 825 miles northeast of Seattle) to Fairbanks, Alaska. The highway is known for its ruggedness — at one time the unpaved road had wild turns, steep grades of up to 25% and dirt and gravel breaks that would kick up thick clouds of dust, quashing visibility and revealing cracks in car windshields after the dust had settled. It is still rugged (sure enough, we got a crack in our windshield that remains today); though times have changed for the storied highway. Engineers have been working to improve it continuously since the mid-20th century to benefit travelers and to improve the time-distance continuum for truckers bringing supplies into Alaska. Today, it is almost entirely paved and is indeed a kick-ass start to your journey into the Last Frontier. 

 

 

AND A SHOUT OUT TO WALLY THE AIRSTREAM... we couldn't have made it to every national park during one year without the support of our trusty home on the road! 

Wally the Airstream entering Great Basin National Park in Nevada. This drone shot was taken *outside* of the park boundaries and is perfectly legit. :)

Wally the Airstream entering Great Basin National Park in Nevada. This drone shot was taken *outside* of the park boundaries and is perfectly legit. :)

'See America' Collection by Yankee Candle (LTD)

After exploring every national park during 2016, we are trying to return to a new sense of normal as we wrap up the final content created during our time on the road... but we're still basking in the experience. Our new home in the city is smothered with park memorabilia – bejeweled hiking sticks with national park medallions standing next to the front door; patches, pins, Instax photos, and other park-themed objects cover walls, the fridge, and any other open space that looks like it needs the spirit of the great outdoors tacked on. Centered in our workspace is a candle from the Yankee Candle See America collection, a limited edition line of candles fragranced with nuanced scents from America's national parks. 10% of sales from the collection, which is a collaboration between Yankee Candle and the Creative Action Network, is donated to an organization whose efforts are vital to the health of national park protection: the National Park Conservancy Association (NPCA), which we already donate to each month. The Creative Action Network is important to us too as it is fueled by a community of artists and advocates making art with purpose.

You can buy your park themed Yankee Candle here (while supplies last!) Also, be sure to check out the amazing work being done by the NPCA! They've been around since 1919, nearly as long as the National Park Service, and are committed to providing independent, nonpartisan support to strengthen and protect America's favorite places. 

As always, happy trails folks!

Yankee Candle See America candle, Great Smoky Mountain edition.

Yankee Candle See America candle, Great Smoky Mountain edition.

A forest of trees in the Great Smoky Mountains! 

A forest of trees in the Great Smoky Mountains

To keep the inspiration, our workspace is everything national parks! 

To keep the inspiration, our workspace is everything national parks! 

Disclaimer: We were compensated for this post. All thoughts expressed here are authentic and were not influenced by the developing company and its partners. 

13 Badass Adventures in the U.S. National Parks

One of the reasons that we cherish America’s national parks so much is that they provide us a place to go play, outside, away from technology, away from work, and in some of the most unique and wonderful natural environments found anywhere in the world. Such places have inspired inventive creations that allow visitors to experience lands that are as old as time in unique and modern ways. While exploring all 59 of the U.S. national parks in 2016, we tried on for size some unusual adventures that got our endorphins pumping while giving us some of our favorite experiences of the year. Here are 13 of our favorites

1. Camping on a glacier in Wrangell St. Elias

All set up to camp on the Kennecott Glacier in Wrangell St. Elias National Park & Preserve. Credit: JONATHAN IRISH

All set up to camp on the Kennecott Glacier in Wrangell St. Elias National Park & Preserve. Credit: JONATHAN IRISH

On tundra/glacier backpacking trips in Wrangell St. Elias National Park and Preserve in Alaska, hikers can tackle some of the most challenging terrain that exists in any of the national parks – scaling layers of rocky moraine covering glacier ice is no easy feat! After longs days of hiking aside expert outdoorsman from St. Elias Guides, you will set up camp each night in the Kennecott Glacier ecosystem, with nothing between you and your tired body but glacier from the last Ice Age and a tent and sleeping bag.

2. Sand boarding in the Great Sand Dunes  

Gliding down massive sand dunes at the foot of the Rocky Mountains is nothing short of fantastic! It is a lot like sledding in the sense that you have a grin plastered on your face the entire time, as you coast across soft slopes of 35-million-year-old sand that covers a 30-square mile radius. Just wax your board, find your footing and take off and you will soon be experiencing the Great Sand Dunes in one of Colorado’s coolest national parks while laughing the whole way down. 

Sand boarding in Great Sand Dunes National Park in Colorado. Credit: JONATHAN IRISH

Sand boarding in Great Sand Dunes National Park in Colorado. Credit: JONATHAN IRISH

3. Caving adventure at Mammoth Cave

Exploring underground is, as it should be, an otherworldly experience. At Mammoth Cave National Park in Kentucky, you can enter the subterranean underworld in the world’s longest mapped cave system and get to know the nooks and crannies of our inner-Earth while guided by impassioned cave rangers. The park offers a Cave Adventure tour that brings modern explorers to their knees as they sliver their way through winding compartments decorated by rare cave formations. 

Crawling into the depths of the world’s largest mapped cave system at Mammoth Cave National Park in Kentucky. Credit: JONATHAN IRISH

Crawling into the depths of the world’s largest mapped cave system at Mammoth Cave National Park in Kentucky. Credit: JONATHAN IRISH

 

4. Bouldering in Joshua Tree

The rock formations at Joshua tree National Park in California are remarkably tacky to the touch, making it one of the best places in the country to go rock climbing; and for those of us not wanting to get tangled up in the technical aspects of climbing, there is bouldering. Climbing and jumping across of rocks makes you feel like a kid again, it’s virtually free, and the experience can be found just a couple of hours driving from Los Angeles, where you are smack in the heart of the Mojave Desert with comical Joshua trees looking on from all around you.

Bouldering in Joshua Tree National Park in the Mojave Desert in California is fit for all ages, fun, and free! Credit: JONATHAN IRISH

Bouldering in Joshua Tree National Park in the Mojave Desert in California is fit for all ages, fun, and free! Credit: JONATHAN IRISH

 

5. House Boating in Voyageurs

Want to captain your own ship? Head to Voyageurs National Park near the Boundary Waters in Minnesota and arrange to rent a Houseboat with the Voyagaire. After a quick briefing, you will set out with a nautical map in hand to explore waterways that were once used as passage into the U.S. by French fur trappers, with modern luxuries including a 2-story water slide and a deck-top grill. Tie-up camping spots make it easy to stop to relax for a night next to a campfire where you can plan your next day of adventure along the natural American border with Canada.

Catching the sunset at our house boat tie-up camping spot in Voyageurs National Park on the American border with Canada. Credit: JONATHAN IRISH

Catching the sunset at our house boat tie-up camping spot in Voyageurs National Park on the American border with Canada. Credit: JONATHAN IRISH

 

 

6. Snorkeling an underwater trail in the Virgin Islands  

Virgin Islands National Park is known for its incredible snorkeling. There, you can swim aside graceful sea turtles, sting rays, and tropical fish that are as colorful as the Caribbean seas where they are located off of the southeastern coast of America. One of the premiere spots in the park boundaries to enjoy a tropical paradise beach is at Trunk Bay, where there is an underwater snorkeling trail with markers guiding you to important spots within the oceanic coral eco-system. 

Underwater snorkeling trail in Virgin Islands National Park. Credit: JONATHAN IRISH

Underwater snorkeling trail in Virgin Islands National Park. Credit: JONATHAN IRISH

 

7. Up-close bear viewing at Lake Clark

This is without a doubt one of the best places in the world to get up close and personal to coastal brown bears in their natural habitat. At the Silver Salmon Creek Lodge on the Cook Inlet in Lake Clark Alaska, you will team up with bear naturalists and field experts who have been observing the habitat for decades, season after season. Boars, sows, juveniles, and cubs will stride beside you on their way to feed off of salmon runs entering the Inlet as they do each summer, and while they are not habituated, they are uninterested in your presence. It is a remarkable and unique way to get up close to the king of the American wilderness on the last frontier. 

This is not a zoom shot — up-close and personal bear viewing in Lake Clark is what makes this park a standout in terms of wildlife sightings. Credit: JONATHAN IRISH

This is not a zoom shot — up-close and personal bear viewing in Lake Clark is what makes this park a standout in terms of wildlife sightings. Credit: JONATHAN IRISH

 

8. Standup paddle through icebergs in the Kenai Fjords

In Bear Glacier in Kenai Fjords National Park in Alaska you can glide through icebergs on standup paddle boards (or in a sea kayak if you prefer) while harbor seals dip in front of your watercraft and nip at the rudders as they peer on with curiosity. To find your jumping off point, you will want to get with Liquid Adventures – the leader of trips in the area – to arrange a backpacking adventure that gives you a place to hang your hat after your day of paddling in a dream world concludes.

Stand up paddle with our new friends near Bear Glacier in Kenai Fjords National Park in Alaska. Credit: JONATHAN IRISH

Stand up paddle with our new friends near Bear Glacier in Kenai Fjords National Park in Alaska. Credit: JONATHAN IRISH

 

9. Hiking on Arctic sand dunes at Kobuk Valley

Kobuk Valley National Park is the least visited park in the system and is home to one of the rarest features on Earth: Arctic sand dunes. The dunes are completely unadulterated, nestled amid spruce forests and aside the Kobuk River, and if you fix your eyes on the ground you will see wildflowers, cool wind patterns in the sand, and jade deposits. One of the ancillary joys of this adventure is that there is nobody anywhere near other than those with whom you are traveling – once the bush plane drops you off, it’s just you and the dunes and the Alaskan wild! And it is really wild… unless you are an experienced backpacker familiar with Alaskan terrain and the Brooks Range, you will probably want to line up some area experts to join you on your trip – Alaska Alpine Adventures is the leading outfit in the area.

Hiking atop rare Arctic sand dunes in America’s least visited national park: Kobuk Valley National Park in Alaska. Credit: STEFANIE PAYNE

Hiking atop rare Arctic sand dunes in America’s least visited national park: Kobuk Valley National Park in Alaska. Credit: STEFANIE PAYNE

 

10. Bridge Jumping in American Samoa

If you want to do like the locals do while in American Samoa, head to the bridge connecting the Ofu and Olosega in the Manu’a Group of the Samoan Islands and free fall into the crystal clear Pacific waters. It might take you a moment to get up your nerve to step from the side of the bridge, it’s at least 25 feet up there, but you can count on anyone with you cheering you on. Once you hit the water a current pulls you easily to a sandy shore where you can kick back beneath a palm tree on a paradise beach.

One of our ranger friends showing us how it’s done. Credit: JONATHAN IRISH

One of our ranger friends showing us how it’s done. Credit: JONATHAN IRISH

 

11. Hiking across lava in Volcanoes

In Volcanoes National Park on the island of Hawai’i, you are immersed in an active volcano system that erupts into the sea. After walking 4-5 miles from inside the park to the convergence, you will cross hardened lava with steam spouting from opened crevices all around you before making way to an overlook where you can view enormous bursts of steam rising into the Pacific skies (a result of the collision of extreme temperatures.) With the sound of waves drumming against the tropical coastlines, and with rainbows and magical sunset skies, you will experience Hawai’i in a way that some travelers miss in favor of tropical beach scenes that are kept close to the coastal hotels. This adventure, however, is unmistakably Hawaiian in the sense that you are looking on to the natural forces that allowed the islands to rise from the depths of the sea. 

Steam rises from where lava meets the sea in Volcanoes National Park on the island of Hawai’i. Credit: JONATHAN IRISH

Steam rises from where lava meets the sea in Volcanoes National Park on the island of Hawai’i. Credit: JONATHAN IRISH

 

12. Canoe camping on a chickee in the Everglades

Canoeing into the mangrove trees in the freshwater area of Everglades National Park in Florida is a sure fire way to get lost in the very best way. Everglades is the first park to be established to protect fresh- and salt waters and the immense wildlife species that habituate there. One of the classic spots to camp out in the area is atop what is called a chickee – an elevated wooden dock that has served as a waypoint for couriers traveling through the region for hundreds of years. Beneath the dock at night you will hear wildlife thrashing beneath you – fish, maybe an alligator feeding on said fish – while the sounds of insect and birdlife sings in the trees.

Camping on a chickee structure in the mangrove trees! Credit: JONATHAN IRISH

Camping on a chickee structure in the mangrove trees! Credit: JONATHAN IRISH

 

13. Swamp walking in Congaree

If you visit Congaree National Park in South Carolina during offseason (north American winter) you will find yourself there during an enchanting time – particularly so if the forest of ancient cypress trees is flooding as it does annually. The environment at this time of year tees up a most unusual hike. Just strap on your muck boots and head off into a completely unique natural setting with nobody around for miles. If you walk quietly, you will start to hear the sounds of the wilderness opening up to you. It is one of the lesser known, but totally awesome, national parks in America; and this experience is even more unusual as there is a small window to experience it each year. 

Walking through a flooded Congaree National Park in South Carolina. Credit: JONATHAN IRISH

Walking through a flooded Congaree National Park in South Carolina. Credit: JONATHAN IRISH

7 Awesome Primitive Camping Spots

First published on Red Bull's Red Bulletin.

AMERICA’S NATIONAL PARKS ARE OUR BELOVED TREASURES. BUT SOMETIMES THEY CAN EVEN GET A LITTLE BUSY. HERE’S THE BEST PLACES FIND A LITTLE ELBOW ROOM IN THE GREAT OUTDOORS.

Most who seek adventures in the wilderness do so to find peace away from the fray of busy urban life. And while a visit to any of the national parks provides an escape of sorts, nowadays the parks can also be quite busy and finding solitude isn’t always easy. 

During our quest to explore all 59 of America’s national parks in 2016, we found that the best way to escape the crowds was to set off on primitive camping experiences in the backcountry. It was those adventures that blew our minds and allowed us connect more clearly with the natural world

The loose definition of primitive camping is to plop down anywhere in a place of wilderness — free of water, electricity and nearby people and/or civilization; where you are left to rely solely upon the gear you brought with you, the company in which you keep and the mercy of wild nature. 

We wanted to share our favorite off-the-beaten-path campsites where you can pitch a tent, explore your surroundings, challenge your body, create beautiful photographs and sleep soundly beneath dark, starry nights. 

7. PICNIC KEY BEACH CAMPING, EVERGLADES NATIONAL PARK, FLORIDA

In Florida’s Everglades, primitive campsites scattered throughout the 10,000 Islands area of the park offer excellent beaches to pitch a tent and relax after a long day of paddling. During a three-day canoe adventure, we camped on a chickee nestled in the mangrove trees, on a beach at Jewel Key and, finally, at Picnic Key — our favorite of the three. There you can gather wood for a fire, and kick back after a day of exploring the confluence of fresh- and salt-water waterways that earned this park the designation of a marine sanctuary. Every moment is incredibly peaceful as the songs of abundant birdlife remind you that you are a guest in an important wildlife habitat.

 

6. OLYMPIC COAST, OLYMPIC NATIONAL PARK, WASHINGTON

This backpacking adventure is the quintessence of beach camping, Pacific Northwest style! Marine weather, rocky beaches decorated with massive hunks of driftwood, active tide pools, crashing waves of the Pacific and mysterious forest lining the beach are your surroundings at Rialto Beach in the coastal area of Olympic National Park. Waking up to seabirds soaring over symphonic waves makes for a peaceful setting. As Washington state is positioned in a wet climate, adventuring there is always a rain-or-shine event. The great thing is that you can gear up and head out to the coast and experience one of the area’s local treasures almost any day of the year.  

 

5. GREAT SAND DUNES, COLORADO

Just a little over four hours driving south from Denver brings you to one of Colorado’s best-kept secrets and home of the highest sand dunes in North America, situated at the foot of the Rocky Mountains. From the Dunes parking lot, set out on foot with your backpacking gear and trek over mountains of sand to find a secluded place where you can camp for the night atop untrammeled sandscapes. Hiking at high-altitude (base elevation is 7,500 feet) is no easy feat, but the reward is epic when you find yourself ready to rest under dark starry skies in complete isolation. 

 

4. BEAR GLACIER, KENAI FJORDS NATIONAL PARK, ALASKA

If there is ever too much of a good thing, you might find it on your quest to explore the area surrounding Bear Glacier, the largest glacier in Kenai Fjords National Park. Every aspect of the entire experience brings you into the fold of the picturesque Alaskan scenery — like the three-mile stretch of Bear Lagoon Beach where you will sleep aside the Aialik Bay or sharing breakfast with bald eagles that call the beach home. After arriving and setting up camp on the rocky beach, you can head out on an all-day paddle (stand-up or kayak) through an iceberg-filled lagoon where harbor seals and other marine life seek safety from larger predators found in neighboring waters. It’s an immersive experience with a true taste of Alaska that is of dream-like proportions. 

 

3. DONAHO BASIN, WRANGELL ST. ELIAS NATIONAL PARK AND PRESERVE, ALASKA

If you want to conquer some of the toughest (and most rewarding) hiking terrain in any of the national parks, head to Wrangell St. Elias National Park. A multi-day backpacking adventure across the Kennecott Glacier is the ultimate way to experience the region. After a day of hiking across the famed glacier in crampons, you’ll come to the serene Donaho Basin where the purest alpine lake is surrounded by majestic tundra and mirrors the spectacular Wrangell and St. Elias mountain ranges that rise above it. It’s almost unbelievable how many unique environments you can travel through on one journey through America’s largest national park, and every inch of will challenge you while taking your breath away with its wild beauty. 

 

2. TURQUOISE LAKE, LAKE CLARK NATIONAL PARK AND PRESERVE, ALASKA

Just a 90-minute flight from Anchorage is primitive camping in its truest form. After being dropped off by floatplane, you instantly realize that you are truly in the heart of the Alaskan bush. We brought foldable kayaks that were easy to tote and set up, which enabled us to experience our surroundings in an adventurous way. All we wanted to do was to paddle and photograph lingering sunsets over pristine glacial waters — and, here, we were able to do both to our heart’s content. 

1. CHESLER PARK, CANYONLANDS NATIONAL PARK, UTAH

n southeastern Utah, we stumbled upon one of the coolest places to camp in the lower 48. Site CP1 (Chesler Park 1) has insanely beautiful views in both directions. On one side, the Chesler Park area looks as if it’s from a storybook. And on the other, a perch overlooking the Elephant Canyon is full of geologic needle formations. After a monstrous day of hiking, we celebrated with a sunset that gave way to an angelic ring around the moon, slept soundly and rose early the next day to catch the sunrise. We wouldn’t change a single thing about this camping experience.

 

WORDS: STEFANIE PAYNE
PHOTOGRAPHY: JONATHAN IRISH

 

America's 10 Best National Parks for Wildlife Viewing


From Grizzlies to Gators, America's National Parks Are Holding

First published on Red Bull's Red Bulletin.

WORDS: STEFANIE PAYNE
PHOTOGRAPHY: JONATHAN IRISH

In 2016, we visited every every U.S. National Park — 59 parks in 52 weeks — on a quest to explore and document the unique characteristics of America’s wilderness that have, over the course of a century, earned federal protection. These parks are the best places in the nation to encounter animals in their natural habitats. So out of all 59, here’s the best-of-the-best wildlife viewing parks that make journeying into the backcountry that much more exciting.

10. THEODORE ROOSEVELT NATIONAL PARK, NORTH DAKOTA

This is one of those fantastic sleeper parks that’s home to a world of wildlife that make a healthy and happy home on the American prairie. Black-tailed prairie dogs pop out of holes in “towns,” howling as they alert their mates of predators - such as coyotes, which can be found everywhere on the landscape. American bison, deer and pronghorn are easy to spot. As are elk, who travel in large herds but tend to scatter in the presence of humans since this area has long been a big-game hunting ground. Perhaps the greatest draw to the park in terms of animals are wild horses, which are protected as a cultural resource. 

Driving the 36-mile paved road, you’ll wind through beautifully colorful badland formations and areas of dense vegetation interspersed with sprawling grasslands - a most unusual landscape collective. When the park was established in the 1940s, many native species of animals were rare or displaced from the region. Through reintroduction efforts over the last 50 years, wildlife populations continue to grow each year as the original ecosystem returns.

9. U.S. VIRGIN ISLANDS

The allure of the Virgin Islands as a tropical paradise comes from the clear, blue ocean - where giant sea turtles glide through the turquoise Caribbean sea and sting rays skate the sandy ocean bottom. The coral reefs in the area are home to more than 300 species of tropical fish that dance in front of the GoPro strapped to your PFD. The park has even preserved an underwater trail complete with markers that help guide snorkelers to important oceanic wildlife locations. 

On land, butterflies flutter, lizards scale ancient sugar cane plantations’ walls and 144 species of birds watch over from above. This U.S. territory off the southeast coast of Florida offers one of the best samplings of marine and terrestrial wildlife, born into the nutrient rich waters where the Atlantic and Caribbean converge. 

8. BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK, TEXAS

If you want to get to know the rugged American west, Big Bend National Park in Texas is your jam. Next to the Rio Grande River on the border of Mexico, the wildlife of the Chihuahuan Desert knows no boundaries. Species unique to this area of the world captivate and transcend park visitors. Looney Tunes cartoons spring into mind as roadrunners scamper across the rugged dirt roads. Chuckwalla lizards scurry among the crevices, coyotes trot the landscape and, at the higher elevations, black bears live in the trees. Ringtail, bobcat, deer, jackrabbits and many other species prove that a water source hides somewhere in the desert. And no trip to the American west could be complete without the flight of the raven - the native American symbol for magic - soaring through the canyon walls above the desert landscape.   

7. EVERGLADES NATIONAL PARK, FLORIDA

Welcome to the bird mecca! The Everglades are an aquatic park that was the first of its kind in the NPS - one devoted to water, and the birds and animals who make their homes there. Here, the salty ocean and fresh inland water sources converge creating an environment where all kinds of wildlife flourish - especially birdlife. Pelicans, roseate spoonbills, flamingo, egrets, heron - wading birds, flying birds, hydro-dynamic birds - abound in habitats of mangrove trees and sandbars, both on the shores and in the skies. Beyond the birdlife, there’s manatees, saltwater raccoons, opossums, amphibians, insect, snakes, grey fox, deer and, of course, the Florida alligator.

6. GLACIER BAY NATIONAL PARK, ALASKA

Glacier Bay is renowned for the marine wildlife that lives in and around Bartlett Cove. On the water you’ll witness sea otters, harbor seals, porpoises and a variety of whale species, the star being the Humpback that congregate here each summer to feed after breeding and calving in Mexico and Hawaii. Park rangers consider the Humpback to be the unofficial park mascot. On land you will see porcupine, black bear and grizzly bears. And in the sky, there’s the beautiful American bald eagle, which locals call “Alaskan pigeons” since they’re so common in the region. 

No point inside of the park is located farther than 30 miles from biodiverse waters that intertwine land mammals and aquatic species. While walking on land, you’re viewing wildlife in the water. When paddling the icy blue coves, you’re spotting animals on the shore. Virtually everywhere you go in this national park you’re surrounded by wildlife.

5. GLACIER NATIONAL PARK, MONTANA

Not to be confused with Glacier Bay in Alaska (above), this park was established in 1910 and is home to a vast number of thriving species who’ve enjoyed more than 100 years of protection. In pockets of the dramatic mountains, lynx, wolverine, mountain goats, mountain lions, wolves, elk, moose, big horn sheep and, of course, grizzly bears roam the landscape. This area in northern Montana has one of the highest grizzly populations in the lower 48 and they’re one of the major draws to the park. 

One reason that the grizzly bear population remains strong in Glacier is that the park shares a northern border with Canada’s Waterton Lakes National Park allowing a larger area for wildlife to roam freely without boundaries. Together, these two parks form the world’s first “International Peace Park,” a joint effort in the preservation of a shared wild ecosystem - one where large fish populations inhabit rivers and streams, and where more than 260 bird species soar above one of the most beautiful landscapes on the planet. 

4. ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK, COLORADO

Colorado’s gateway to the sky is Rocky Mountain National Park. Home to a wide variety of wildlife, none are more expressive than the elk who bugle their way through rut every fall. (“Rut” is the term used for mating season among ruminant animals like deer, camel, antelope, etc.) The male displays of dominance over their harems and melodic calls are so fascinating that the event has earned the nickname “Elktober.”  

While elk are the star of the show at Rocky Mountain each fall, there are plenty of other species to captivate visitors 24/7/365. Moose, deer, Bighorn sheep and coyotes can be seen across the vast meadows from dawn ’til dusk, as can small animals like marmot, pika, chipmunks and squirrels. You’re less likely to see black bear and mountain lion, but they’re out there. Count on racking up your birdlife-list with more than 270 species recorded to be either residents or migrators of the park. 

3. YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK, MONTANA/IDAHO/WYOMING

America’s first national park, established in 1872 in an effort to preserve its enormous wildlife populations. Today, wildlife continues to thrive and that’s the number one reason that more than three million visitors plan trips here each year. The park’s well-mapped and paved roads make spotting animals that much easier as you auto-tour sections of the two-million-acre wilderness. 

For those comfortable with outdoor exploration, wandering off on foot in the backcountry provides superb opportunities to see animals that are more elusive. Over the course of a century, many species who prefer to be left alone have discovered that roads equate to people. Traveling the expansive landscape on foot, you can spot black bear, grizzly bear, wolves, lynx, coyotes, wolverines and mountain lions. Plus, there’s the ungulate species that they prey on such as white-tailed deer, mule deer, pronghorn, mountain goats, elk, moose and bison — the last of which is prominently displayed on the National Park Service arrowhead logo insignia as a representation of all American wildlife. Not only does Yellowstone have the highest population of wildlife in the contiguous 48, it also allows guests to witness the vital predator-prey relationships that persist and impact the greater ecosystem inside the park and beyond.   

2. DENALI NATIONAL PARK, ALASKA

While Denali is best known as a place for mountaineers yearning to experience “The High One,” the national park was originally established to protect an immense population of wildlife. Denali (formerly Mt. McKinley National Park) is home to countless species of animals, rightfully earning its comparison to an African safari. These are America’s Big 5: grizzly bear, moose, wolf, caribou and Dall sheep. 

You can find moose in the lowlands, along with ptarmigan (the state bird of Alaska), the elusive lynx, the arctic ground squirrel, the snowshoe hare and the red fox. A more populous concentration of grizzly bears live at higher elevations with dense blueberry bushels and sedge grasses to feast on while anticipating the occasional lost moose or caribou calf away from its brood. At the highest elevations, you’ll find Dall sheep and caribou, who each find their way to mountain hillsides where bears’ hunting behaviors are more challenged. And finally, wolves — the most elusive animal of all American wildlife have a rather large population in Denali, making it one of the best places to see the fabled creature in its wild environment. While you wait for that sighting, train your eyes to the sky where 160 bird species live, including the majestic golden eagle.  

1. LAKE CLARK NATIONAL PARK AND PRESERVE, ALASKA

This is one of the least visited national parks due to its challenging-to-explore interior. However, it’s without a doubt one of the best places on Earth to interact with coastal brown bears. All summer long on the Cook Inlet, coastal brown bear sows, cubs and males walk the beaches in search of razor clams and other shellfish to beef up on calories before hibernation each fall. To wander among them in a safe way, you can team up with expert bear naturalists who have surveyed their behavior and activity seasonally for decades. 

While Lake Clark is mecca for bear viewing, there are plenty of other animals to see in the four-million-acre wilderness stretching across southeastern Alaska. In the park interior, you’re in the home of large mammals such as moose, caribou, Dall sheep, wolves and smaller animals including porcupine and the beautiful red fox. The wildlife ecosystem extends to the waterways, of course, where 25 species of fish live. And soaring above the spectacular landscape are migratory birds that return to the area each summer to cash in on the ample food supply. But what cinched Lake Clark as our number one pick is the diversity and sheer number of sightings you’re all but guaranteed when visiting the park. It’s an incredibly wild place that’s full of life. 

6 Places to be in Love in Our National Parks

Whether your idea of romance is relaxing in a serene lake setting, watching a technicolor sunrise or sunset, wandering among trees that reach into the heavens, swimming with sea life, or enjoying a paradise beach that has been called one of the ten most beautiful in the world—there are plenty of places in America’s national parks that will stoke anyone’s romantic heart. Here we offer six wilderness places where love is all around…  

 

Sunset at Delicate Arch

Visitors to Arches National Park in southeastern Utah gather every night of the year at sunset to watch the desert sun warm one of the most iconic sights in all of the national parks: Delicate Arch. The amphitheater-like setting provides an ideal perch from where you and your sweetie can cuddle up and watch the sunset colors slowly illuminate the Delicate Arch with the stunning La Sal Mountains in the backdrop. 

Sunset at Delicate Arch in Arches National Park in Utah. Shot with FUJIFILM X-T1.

 

Sunrise Atop The Haleakala Crater

At the top of the Haleakala Crater, you will find yourself above the clouds looking upon one of the most unique sunrise views in any of the national parks. It is one of those extreme places that makes you wonder where on Earth you are… a place so enchanting that hundreds of people wake up at 3:00am every morning to make the drive to the top of the crater. Romance abounds at Haleakala National Park on the island of Maui—on one December morning we witnessed a marriage proposal as the sun burst over the horizon (she said yes!) and wedding photos being taken a short time later as the golden hour kissed the landscape.

Standing atop the Haleakala Crater in Haleakala National Park on the island of Maui, Islands of Hawai'i. Shot with FUJIFILM X-T1.

 

Swimming With Sea Turtles in The Virgin Islands

Being on a beautiful beach and swimming in warm Caribbean waters is already romantic—adding an experience snorkeling with graceful sea turtles makes it even more so. At Caneel Bay's Turtle Beach in Virgin Islands National Park, you are in the perfect place to get up close to those beautiful creatures while swimming aside the one you love. Afterwards, grab some beach chairs and share piña colada on the beach to celebrate the experience. 

Swimming with sea turtles at Caneel Bay in Virgin Islands National Park. Shot with FUJIFILM X-T1.

 

America’s Most Beautiful Beach... American Samoa

On the island of Ofu in the National Park of American Samoa, you will find a four-mile stretch of pristine paradise beach which has been touted as one of the top ten beaches in the world in terms of beauty. Given the isolation of these islands you are likely to have the entire place to yourselves. It truly is the kind of beach that postcard dreams are made of. 

Perfection at Ofu Beach on the island of Ofu in American Samoa. Shot with FUJIFILM X-T1.

 

Wandering Among The World’s Largest Trees in Sequoia  

At Sequoia National Park in California, you can experience the romance of John Muir’s beloved forest that became the first of its kind in the park system, while exploring with your heart’s desire. There is something fantastically mysterious about strolling through cathedral-like columns of trees that are the largest in the world… and where there is mystery, there is romance. 

Wandering among the largest trees in the world at Big Trees Trail in Sequoia. Shot with FUJIFILM X-T1.

 

Sitting Lakeside at Lake McDonald

When you think of the most serene and peaceful lake setting your imagination can dream up, you probably place yourself in that scene with someone who makes your heart skip a beat. At Glacier National Park in Montana, Lake McDonald is that perfect place, where quiet moments are met by a mountainous backdrop rising 8,000 feet from the landscape. It's peaceful, it's beautiful, it's a perfect place to be in love. 

Among the most peaceful settings in the national parks, Lake McDonald in Glacier NP, Montana. Shot with FUJIFILM X-T1.

 

Date Night Alaska-Style in Lake Clark

Summer is the bet time to do this adventure, when the Alaska wild opens up to warm weather. A backcountry journey awaits at Turquoise Lake in Lake Clark National Park. After getting dropped off by bush plane, it is just you and your beloved, whatever gear you brought with you, and your own shared company. Wilderness backcountry travel forces you to think as a team, communicate well, and rely on each other. For the adventure-loving couple, this is an ultimate date night.

Kickin' it lakeside in our Oru Kayaks and sipping some wine in Lake Clark National Park in Alaska. Shot with FUJIFILM X-T1.

Happy Valentines Day!

Softening the Human Footprint on Rocky Mountain NP

Wandering through the delicate grasslands in Rocky Mountain National Park in fall, 2016. 

Rocky Mountain National Park is perfection, but far from pristine. Between fall foliage, elk rut, and the general gung-ho nature of travelers and area locals who want to get into the park, even shoulder season is packed with people. All of that traffic has quite an effect. We stumbled upon this press release and asked one of the lead park rangers if we could share it on our site. “Yes! Please do,” she replied. For those who want to know a little more about how visitation effects one of our nation’s busiest national parks and how to become a better steward when you head to any of America’s 59 parks, have a read. It’s really interesting! 

Please Help Your Friends Behave Better To Protect Rocky Mountain National Park

News Release Date: July 27, 2016

In 2015, Rocky Mountain National Park was the third most visited national park with over 4.1 million visitors. So far this year, Rocky is experiencing a twelve percent increase in visitation from last year. Over the last 100 years, the reasons people visit are the same: to experience nature, to seek solitude, to enjoy scenic grandeur, to watch wildlife, and to partake in outstanding recreational activities. National parks are special places for all of us and for future generations too! 

Most visitors know how to behave while enjoying their national parks. Some do not. Park staff continue to see a large increase in behaviors that do not protect the park or visitor experiences. Plan to visit Rocky Mountain National Park with friends who need some tips? Here are a few of ours! 

When your friends suggest you visit the park between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m., propose instead the importance of planning ahead. Coming to Rocky between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. during the summer and fall can mean full parking lots, congested roads, busy trails, and long lines and wait times at entrance stations. This year the park has restricted vehicle access numerous times in the Bear Lake Road Corridor and Wild Basin Corridor due to congestion and full parking lots. Instead recommend hiking early or late. Check the weather forecast before you arrive at the park to better plan your day and destinations. If you plan to hike later in the day, it is critical that you know the weather forecast for the elevation of your destination. If possible, avoid weekends.  

When your friends say, "Let's have a campfire," please let them know that Rocky always has fire restrictions in place: campfires are prohibited except within designated campfire rings in picnic areas and front-country campgrounds.  Last year, the park saw a significant increase in illegal escaped campfires.  In the fall of 2012, the Fern lake Fire started from an illegal campfire.  That fire burned over 3,000 acres, caused evacuation of a portion of Estes Park, and cost more than 6 million dollars to suppress. 

Do your friends create parking spaces where there are none? If their next door neighbor was having a garage sale would they accept customers partaking in this garage sale to park in their front yard? On their prized rose bushes? Encourage them to park in designated parking spaces in Rocky Mountain National Park. These include durable surfaces like asphalt and gravel, not on grass, meadows, bushes, or alpine tundra.

When your very close friend indicates they need to potty, first and foremost suggest an established restroom facility. If you are on a trail and a restroom facility is not nearby then leave no trace of your activity or "business." Do not step off the trail and leave your "business" for others to see, including the park's trail and wilderness crews as well as other visitors. If peeing, recommend to your friend to "drip-dry" or if toilet paper is necessary then take the toilet paper out in a baggy, backpack or pocket. If your friend is a frequent pooper, suggest taking care of that before hiking. If nature calls, plan ahead – bring a waste bag, or research tips on how to poop in the woods. Friends don't let friends go to the bathroom near water sources. Just think, you might be drinking from that water source the next day! 

When your friends ask, "How close can I get to that elk, deer, bobcat, coyote, badger, bear, marmot …?" suggest they ask a different question, such as "How far should I stay back?" Let wildlife be wild and observe from a distance. Your friends might get closer to wildlife, until the wildlife reacts to their presence. When that happens, it's too late, they have reached the threshold. The elk, deer, bobcat … might leave the area because of them, affecting wildlife viewing opportunities for others. Let your friends know that approaching wildlife is illegal in Rocky Mountain National Park and it doesn't matter if they are doing it to take a photograph. There are no exceptions. Recommend investing in a good telephoto lens. Do they feel it's only a good photograph if they are in the photo with the wildlife? Suggest they take a photo of Rocky Mountain National Park's entrance sign, followed by great distant photos of wildlife. Their friends on social media will realize that they are having an adventure in a national park: being eight feet from an elk is dangerous, illegal and not necessary to demonstrate an adventuresome spirit. 

When your friends ask, "Can we take our dog, cat, bunny… on park trails?" let them know pets are prohibited on ALL park trails, alpine tundra and meadows.  Their leashed pet can only accompany them on established roads, parking areas, established campground and picnic areas; basically where cars can go. When they express that their dog is small and can be carried, that their dog is huge and can fend for itself, or that their dog is better behaved than your child, remind them that Rocky is wilderness. Dogs are predators that can chase, scare, and transmit diseases to wildlife. Their dog could also become prey for wildlife like coyotes, mountain lions, bobcats and Great Horned Owls. Park visitors should be able to enjoy native wildlife in their natural environment at Rocky Mountain National Park without disruption from other visitors' pets. 

When your friends want to take a rock, antler, bouquet of wildflowers, chipmunk or anything else from Rocky Mountain National Park, suggest they take a photo instead and leave what they find. What if, in 2015, 4.1 million visitors took an object from the park with them? 

A few extra tips: camping in Rocky Mountain National Park requires a permit; it is illegal to feed wildlife in the park, big or small, this includes chipmunks and birds; stay on existing established trails, the increase of social trails is damaging the park's incredible resources; please leave no trace, this includes taking apple cores, orange peels and everything else you and your friend brought into the park with you, along with wonderful memories of your visit! 

 

Flying in Alaskan Bush Planes

Alaskan bush pilots are the wise owls of the 49th state—they are the first to see it all. They know when rivers are flooding, when glaciers are retreating, when wildlife migrations are occurring; rockslides, mudslides, erosion, first freezes—they see it all first from their homes in the skies over the roadless geography of Alaska. They are uniquely equipped to provide essential search and rescue operations in remote areas and do so willingly even though it is outside of their mandate; and for explorers, they are our passport into the Alaskan wilderness.  

We took 24 flights (and one helicopter) to get into the belly of eight Alaskan national parks this year and wanted to pay homage to the bush pilots who make exploration of Alaska accessible to all of us who wish to see it, while offering our warmest thanks to all of them for keeping us safe while hugging steaming volcanoes, ducking cloud streams, dipping sideways for unexpected wildlife sightings, and altering their flight-plan manifests to show more of it to us than was required.  

We also wanted to extrapolate some of the romance of bush flight into useful information that others due to travel in small aircraft might like to know...

An overview—Bush planes are used mostly in areas that don't have the infrastructure for cars, including the African bush, the Canadian North, the Australian Outback, and on the Alaskan tundra... where roads end, bush flights begin. Typical fleets are comprised of classic mid-century and modern machines alike, including Beavers, Havillands, Cessnas, Gophers, Piper Super Cubs, Otters—and are outfitted either with "tundra tires" (large all-terrain tires equipped for landing on rugged landscapes,) or skis which are used to land on water or ice or snowpack.  

The ride—Because cabins are not pressurized in small planes they must fly low to the ground. Expect near-mountain fly-byes, sharp turns, and bumpy landings. It’s all part of the adventure! You'll wear a headset that enables you to converse with the pilot and other passengers. Some planes seat just two and some gear; some seat up to 16. Cost varies greatly depending on distance of travel and the amount of gear you carry. 

Weather—While weather reports are useful planning tools, most bush pilots can attest that the most useful report is a look into the sky for real-time weather information and to ask around. They make a lot of their decisions based on experience, knowledge of the climate, reports from other pilots, and what is appearing right there and then. 

Security—There is no standard "TSA" operation aboard Alaskan bush flights. It typically goes something like this: put all of your pointy stuff in a pile, including bear spray which the pilot will strap to the external wing... if the bear spray were to discharge inside a plane while in flight, it would essentially blind the pilot subjecting all onboard to emergency landing/crash. Hop on the plane, fly. 

Are these small planes safe? The risk of flying in small planes in Alaska is inherently greater than it is in the lower-48 due to fickle weather, unreliable weather reports, and rugged terrain and landing locations. The good news is that according to reports from the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health, accidents in the last ten years are on the steady decrease as emergency preparedness measures continue to improve flight safety operations statewide. Truthfully, we didn't research this criteria too heavily prior to traveling through Alaska because we knew we would spend a great deal of time in small aircraft, and lets get real—in some cases, ignorance really is bliss... food for thought if you are planning travel through remote Alaska.     

Who are the pilots? Alaskan bush captains are sometimes referred to as "pilots’ pilots" because they operate planes manually at all times—different from commercial airliners who fly almost exclusively on autopilot. Several of our pilots told us that it is this fact alone that made them select Alaska as a place to live and work. They are a fascinating collective of souls with amazing stories about their voyages in flight, and part of the beauty (and sometimes strife) of this kind of travel is that you never know who you are going to get in the cock pit. Sometimes you will hop aboard with a 60-year old veteran who has been flying the skies his entire life; sometimes, you will get your safety briefing from a pilot who looks no older than your teenage son... sometimes, you might not even receive a safety briefing at all. You can take some bit of solace in the fact that pilot licenses are available to young adults aged of 14 years—two years younger than the legal age of operating a motor vehicle in this country…so that teenager flying? Even at 19, he might have been up there in practice for five years already. In any event, you really don’t have much say in the matter. But it’s not entirely out of your control—you can put yourself in the hands of the best small aircraft operators in Alaska. Here are some companies that we flew with who are regarded as some of the best in the business: 

Wrangell Mountain Air. Based in McCarthy, your jumping off point in Wrangell St. Elias National Park.

Wright Air. Based in Bettles, this is the outfit to bring you to Kobuk Valley and Gates of the Arctic National Parks, both located in the Central Brooks Range north of the Arctic Circle. 

Lake Clark Air. Based in Port Alsworth, your gateway to Lake Clark National Park and Preserve

Wings of Alaska, the top company flying from Skagway to Glacier Bay National Park

PenAir, service to Brooks Falls in Katmai.

Andrew Airways, based in King Salmon, your jumping off point to the Katmai National Park and Preserve.

Our bush pilot Willy Fulton from Andrew Airwaysone of the most experienced pilots in the business. You might recognize him from the Werner Herzog documentary film "Grizzly Man" which documents the life of Timothy Treadwell's experiences in Katmai National Park & Preserve. Willy was one of the regular resuppliers to the area where Timothy Treadwell, AKA "Grizzly Man," lived and filmed. Sadly, he was also the one to find the remains of his friend in 2003. 

Holiday Gift Giving for the Outdoorsmen

While we will be sitting out the holiday season in traditional fashion this year, we know that many of you are starting to consider what to gift during the holidays. In that spirit, we wanted to share with you what we think are some really smart ideas of what to give the outdoorsmen in your lives. Full disclaimer: many of these products have been provided to us by our project sponsors, however, know that if it is included in this list we have determined it to be a piece of gear we don't want to live without. We’ve done our best to address a broad price range. Happy holidays everyone! 

Some of the awesome gear we've been lucky to use this year.

 

For the digital outdoorsmen & the constantly connected...

Anker device chargers (Amazon $55.00)

Anker 6-port USB wall charger (Amazon $30.00)

Vinli mobile wifi

 

For the picture takers...

For the social shutterbug:

Fujifilm Instax Wide 300 (Amazon $94 not including film)

Fujifilm Instax Mini (Amazon $55 not including film)

 

For the serious photographer:

Fujifilm X-T1 Mirrorless Digital Camera ($1,300)

Really Right Stuff tripod ($720 - $1,480)

LaCie Rugged external hard drives (Amazon: $70 - $230)

ThinkTank Photo gift card (selecting a camera bag is a very personal decision!)

Go Pro Hero4 Silver (Amazon $279)

 

For the outdoor artist!

Apple Pencil ($94) for iPad Pro ($814 for 128GB)

Kayti Fan Design stencil tote ($28)

 

 

 

For the adventurer seekers...

 

For paddlers

Oru Origami Kayaks ($1,175)

 

For hikers

Danner hiking boots (REI $360)

REI trekking poles (REI $29 - $220)

 

For backpackers

Mountain Hardwear Ozonic OutDry waterproof backpack for her ($199)

Mountain Hardwear South Col OutDry backpack for him ($300)

Mountain Hardwear Ghost Sky 3 Tent ($530)

Mountain Hardwear 5-20 degree sleeping bags ($82 - $195)

Therm-a-Rest ProLite Plus sleep pads (REI $90 - $120)

Cacoon sleep pillow (REI $27)

Black Diamond Apollo Lantern (REI $50)

 

For campers

Mountain Hardwear Optic 6 tent (a true 6-person tent! We like to call it "the gymnasium") ($299)

Stanley coffee thermos (REI $33-$50)

Coleman National Parks Edition electric lantern (REI $149)

ENO Hammocks (REI $69)

 

For the indoors outdoorsman...

Pendleton National Parks themed blankets ($149 - $259)

USAOPOLY National Parks Edition Monopoly ($31)  

Hitting sunset with a National Park themed Pendleton blanket! 

 

For the Airstreamers...

Airstream themed gifts

 

Stocking stuffers!

National Park Service Annual Pass (NPS $80)

Petzel headlamps (REI $20 - $499)

Neck gaiters (REI $9 - $45)

Little Hotties hand and foot warmers (Amazon $10)

Motorola Walkie Talkies (Amazon $65)

Backpackers Pantry dehydrated food ($7 - $17)

5 Hour Energy (Amazon $50 for a 24-pack)

La Colombe Cold Brew Draft Coffee ($12)

Books about adventure!

If you give only one gift this year, make it a really good gift!

Whether you #OptOutside for Black Friday this year or kick-start your holiday shopping right away, we have the same message for holiday shoppers—gift this in 2016: Fujifilm Instax Wide 300

After spending nearly one year with this camera, we are certain that it is a gift that anyone would want to receive. It’s affordable, costing somewhere between $90-$105 depending on its sale price. It's really easy to usejust load the batteries, film, and then press one button to capture and release the photo. It is an ideal ice-breaker. Have nothing to say to someone but want to connect? Take an Instax of a moment and give it to them. You'll miss the 75 cents it costs in one slide of film less then you will the value of sentiment that it provides. It produces instant gratification and tangible memories that you can give and share with loved ones and people you don't yet know. And most importantly, Instax photos are just super cool, especially for sharing on social media and for creating retro-inspired spaces (see footer photo.)

It may look familiar—most of us who are 30-years and older recall instamatic photography from the dawn of our youth. We then called it "Polaroid" after the brand that produced it; today we call it "Instax", created by Fujifilm. Click the button, watch the photo dispense, then wave it in the air as if helping to expedite the development process (this doesn’t really work by the way)... it the most nostalgic form of photography for Gen-X'ers. It is clear that these cameras are becoming more and more popular with younger crowds as well, proved by countless conversations we have had with people of all ages from all over the world while exploring our national parks this year... "You have the Instax Wide? I have an Instax Mini!"  

During our 2016 travels we've been geared-up to the nines and have plenty of gift recommendations for the outdoors-people in your lives... that list is available in a separate post. In the meantime, we wanted to suggest one stand-alone item that will inspire those who are difficult-to-shop for and/or “have everything and need nothing." So, here you go! Instax, for the best possible price on Amazon. And don't forget to buy film

For more information about the Instax Wide 300, head to the Fujifilm official site. To see more Instax photos from our adventure this year, check out our Instax gallery page.

This is what we are doing with our Instax photos... decorating the Airstream, our home on the road! 

Exploring & Staying Safe in American Bear Country

A boar plunges into the Brooks River to catch a fish for dinner. 

It would make little sense to write about all eight of Alaska's National Parks (as well as parks in Montana and Wyoming) without a special section on this website devoted to the bears that roam free there. After all, it is for their protection that some of the national parks were established in the first place.

The atmosphere of bear country is one of the most popular topics of discussion brought up to us in the context of our Alaskan travels. "Weren't you scared?!" and "Did you carry bear spray?" and "How did you prepare to camp in the backcountry?" are some of the most commonly asked questions. We had many of the same curiosities ourselves before we wandered off into the Alaskan bush for the summer.

Attacks on humans are rare, but they have happened, so clearly it's important to know some of what to do before getting out there. Let's start with these two important things: 1.) most likely, an experienced guide will be with you the entire time (unless you choose to jet off into backcountry); and 2.) it is perfectly rational to be timid about exploring a landscape where bears wander freely. With that out of the way, you can rest assured that having a bear encounter is most often exciting and wonderful as opposed to terrifying and dangerous. The key to having a great experience is in knowing how to act and what to do if you see a bear. 

In this article, we'll discuss general information about bears including their diet and habitat, behavior, how to interact and what to do during an encounter, miscellaneous factoids, and a bit about the species itself which is an important distinction, so we'll start with that.


Types of bears found in Alaska: Black bears; polar bears; grizzly, Kodiak, and coastal brown bears. The latter three are all one species of brown bear, differentiated by geography and diet which affects their size and behavior. 

A sow black bear in Glacier Bay National Park in Alaska. 

Black bears – These are the smallest of all bears living in Alaska. Their color is typically black, you may also see black bears with lighter, cinnamon-colored coats. While their habitat in most of North America is commonly associated with high-elevation and thick forested areas, they are roving creatures that can be found anywhere on the Alaskan landscape – on river banks, coastal beaches, in meadows, on tundra, and in valleys. Their diet consists mostly of berries, sedges and other grasses; they also eat fish, clams and other shellfish, moose calves, and other small mammals to pack on weight before winter hibernation. Black bears don’t generally commingle with brown bears, so if you see a black bear, you probably wont see a brown or grizzly in the immediate vicinity.

Where you will find them: From Sequoia and Kings Canyon in California to Shenandoah in Virginia to the Kenai Fjords in Alaska, black bears live throughout North America can be found in too many of our national parks to count! 

 

A sow polar bear near Kaktovik, Alaska. Photo credit: Wikipedia.

Polar bears  These bears live only on the far reaches of the northern polar coastlines (you wont see a polar bear in interior or lower coastal Alaska.) As polar ice caps melt and their habitat dwindles, food sources become more scarce and as a result, they are considered to be the most dangerous species of bear to human beings. Unlike brown and black bears who generally aren't bothered by humans unless humans bother them, polar bears will hunt humans for food. 

Where you will find them: Polar bears do not live in any of the U.S. National Parks. In Alaska, they can be found only on the northern coastlines. 

 

A grizzly roaming the tundra in Denali National Park.

Grizzly – Grizzly bears are found in interior Alaska (as well as Montana, Wyoming, Idaho, Washington, the Yukon Territory, and British Columbia.) They are the smallest of Alaskan brown bears due to a more scarcely available food supply found inland, and also to the greater exertion they spend on obtaining essential calories. They feed on berries, grasses, root bulbs, insects, small rodents, and tree nuts; and when they can find a kill, moose, caribou, sheep and goats. The name “Grizzly” was coined because they tend to be the most aggressive of bears, as they have to fight harder for food sources. They can be found on the Alaskan tundra, in meadows, by streams, and in forests. 

Where you will find them: In our national parks, grizzly bears can be found in Denali, Wrangell St. Elias, Kobuk Valley, and Gates of the Arctic (all in Alaska); and Glacier National Park and Yellowstone National Park in Montana and Wyoming. 

 

Kodiak bear at Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge on Kodiak Island, Alaska. Photo credit: Wikipedia.  

Kodiak – With a tremendous food supply of protein-rich fish always available to them, Kodiak bears are the largest of all brown bears. These are the heavyweights—some have weighed in at 1,500 lbs. They are found only on Kodiak Island, an amazing wilderness habitat, the second largest island in America next to Hawai’i’s Big Island. 

Where you will find them: Kodiak bears do not live in any of the U.S. National Parks; they only live on Kodiak Island. 

A coastal brown bear sow and her three, 2-year cubs looking for shellfish on the shores of Glacier Bay. 

Coastal Brown Bears – As the name suggests, coastal brown bears live in the coastal areas of Alaska. With a wealth of food sources at their disposal—mainly fish and shell fish unearthed at low tide—these bears are known to be relatively docile towards humans so long as they are eating abundantly. Coastal brown bears are also known to provide the best viewing opportunities for travelers to Alaska as they frequently meander the shores (which can be viewed easily from the safety of a motorized boat or kayak.)

Where you will find them: In our national parks, coastal brown bears can be found in Katmai, Lake Clark, Glacier Bay, and Kenai Fjords (all in Alaska).  

 


Two large boars feed on salmon at Brooks Falls in Katmai National Park and Preserve in Alaska. 

Gender and age: Adult female bears are called sows. Adult males are called boars. Baby bears are called cubs. Young bears who have just separated from their mothers (this typically happens in their third year) are called juveniles

 


With expert bear naturalists from the Silver Salmon Creek Lodge in Lake Clark at our side, we are able to sit among coastal brown bears for days at a time watching them in their natural habitat. Stay tuned for more on that experience (park #37, coming up!) This bear sow is named Crimp Ear, a very social bear and a favorite to many who live in that area. 

Bear viewing etiquette: Seeing a bear in the wild is an awesome and unforgettable experience. Outlined below is some general etiquette to observe while bear viewing: 

Never approach, clap or shout at, or crowd bears to get their attention... and never forget that in the wilds of Alaska, you are a guest in their home. Observing their comfort and space (for your safety and theirs) should be your first priority.

Trails in established bear viewing areas were created for a reason. Stay on them whenever possible. 

The National Park Service advises that humans stay 100 yards away from bears whenever possible. In some cases, like in the picture shown here taken in Lake Clark, Alaska, they might approach you and enter into your space. It should be acknowledged here that situations always vary, and as such, adaptability to your surroundings is necessary equipment while bears are near. 


This bear, with its scowl and drool, is displaying stress as our boat nears its environment on the Katmai Peninsula. We quickly moved away!

Bear behavior and aggression: It is essential to have an understanding of bear behavior before exploring in bear country. Outlined below are some common behaviors to watch for. 

When a bear stands on its hind legs, it is most likely trying to determine what you are—bears have poor eyesight.

Bears do, on the other hand, have very good sense of smell—they can smell humans from three miles away when positioned downwind. 

If it is popping its jaw, snarling, growling, breathing heavily, coughing, sneezing, or drooling, it is experiencing stress—and indication that you are agitating it and are too close. 

Sows with cubs in tow are likely to be aggressive toward humans, as sows are extremely protective of their young. If you see a sow with cubs, maintain an even greater distance. Never get between a mother and her cub.

Bears tend to be at their most aggressive near the time that they hibernate, during late October and early November, when they are vying for every calorie they can to see them through the long winter sleep. 


Avoiding unwanted bear encounters: They say that “one of your best defenses against bears is your brain.” In other words, the more you know, the better the chances of you have of having an amazing experience among bears in the American wilderness. Some ways to minimize close bear encounters include:

Hike in wide open areas where you (and the bear) have clear visibility of the landscape.

Hike in groups of two or more. The sound of voices and the reverberation of foot traffic helps to alert bears of your presence, which will usually drive them in another direction. 

IGBC-approved bear-storage containers...we're decorating ours with stickers from places we've used them. Snazzy!

IGBC-approved bear-storage containers...we're decorating ours with stickers from places we've used them. Snazzy!

Maintain constant conversation, and/or sing on the trail to alert bears of your presence with the sound of your carrying voice.  

Observe proper food storage at all times while in bear habitat by using bear cans; and freeing tents, cars, and your general surroundings of food and scented items. Never sleep in clothing that you cooked in. 

Always stay "bear aware" when traveling in bear country. Know that they could be anywhere... you should always be ready to react. 

 

What to do if you have an encounter: If you are exploring the North American wilderness, there is a likelihood that you may see a bear...and it is a wonderful experience to have. Here are some general guidelines of what to do and how to behave if you see a bear: 

Remain calm and stand still.

If you have children with you, pick them up. 

Slowly step aside of the bear's path and stand firmly in one spot, speaking in a calm but firm voice something like “Okay bear, I’m just going to step aside and allow you to pass…”

If the bear is laying down, start to back away slowly and at a sideways trajectory, keeping your eye on the bear until you are a safe distance away. 

 

What to do if it mock charges you: Bears may mock charge humans, running straight at you aggressively if they feel threatened. Scary! If you run - never run - it will be more likely to attack you. If you stand your ground, it will most likely stop about 10 feet from you. It might be the scariest moment of your life, but mock charges are actually a somewhat common response during a close encounter. So what to do? Stand your ground. DO NOT RUN. Running will turn you into prey in a bears eyes. This is a good time to have bear deterrent handy and ready to use. 


What to do if a bear attacks: Bears do not want to brutalize human beings, an attack typically occurs when it is surprised, and/or protecting a kill (a food source) or cubs. Black bears and brown bears have different behaviors during an attack, and your response (heaven forbid you should ever find yourself in this situation) will be different for each. If attacked by a brown bear, PLAY DEAD. If attacked by a black bear, FIGHT FOR YOUR LIFE. In detail: 

Brown or grizzly bear: Lay on your belly, spread your legs wide apart to make it more difficult for the bear to turn you over, and place your hands behind your neck then play dead and do not fight back unless the bear continues to attack. If it does, fight for your life. 

Black bear: Do not play dead, instead, try to escape to safety and if that is not an option, fight for your life by kicking and punching the bear's face and muzzle.  

  


Bear deterrents: "Deterrents" are items carried on your person that are used for self-protection in the case of a bear attack. The deterrent that you should first use during an aggressive bear encounter is your brain to determine its behavior and to act accordingly. If that fails—bears are wild animals and wild animals are unpredictable—it is wise to have a second line of defense. The following deterrents are useful in different scenarios, though you don't need to carry them all. Just choose the right one for you and the environment that you are in. And of course, learn how to use them. 

Stef taking off into bear country in Lake Clark Alaska with a can of bear spray, also known as "a can of confidence." 

Spray: The most popular and well known bear deterrent is casually called “bear spray”—Alaska guides call it a “can of confidence.” Bear spray is like mace, its aim is to stop a bear from attacking you by blinding it. If you are standing downwind when you spray it, it will blind you, so learn how to use it. It is imperative that you buy EPA approved bear spray they can be sold in most national park visitor centers.  

Bells:  "Bear bells"—sometimes called the "afternoon snack alarm" are simply jingle bells that you fasten to your pants that make noise while you walk. Noisemakers. It is our understanding that the sound of bells isn't unfamiliar enough to bears to act as a deterrent, and recent studies conducted in Katmai showed that the majority of bears weren't fazed by the sound. They also interrupt the peaceful environment for everyone else there, so we are not huge fans... but, to each his own. 

Flares: Flares are a popular deterrent with naturalists because the sound (like fireworks) will scare the bear without causing them harm, and they are lightweight and easy to carry.

Guns: Guns should only be handled by experienced gun owners and operators, and those who are familiar with bear behavior. Shooting a bear could easily go really wrong... It could also land you in hot water with the State while leaving you with a mountain of paperwork to fill out explaining why you shot a bear. Most top guiding companies in Alaska equip their guides with a gun, as well as training on how and when to use it.  


Keeping bears wild: We as humans are very lucky to be able to observe bears in their natural habitat in America's national parks and elsewhere. It is essential that we do our part to minimize impact on bears so they can continue to roam our planet. Here are some ways that each of us can do our part to help keep bears wild:

Respect a bear's space. Use binoculars or telephoto camera lenses to "get closer." The National Park Service advises that humans stay at least 100 yards from bears if they can help it. If a bear shows any change in behavior when you are near then you are too close. 

NEVER feed a bear. Ever. "A fed bear is a dead bear." When black or brown bears begin to associate food with people, they start to get aggressive; when bears become aggressive with park visitors, they are captured and exterminated.

Drive slowly on our wilderness roads. In the last two years in Yosemite National Park, early 60 black bears have been killed by road traffic. We always try to practice defensive driving, keeping in mind that any animal of any size could bolt in front of our car at any given time. We've not had a collision yet and hope to get through this year (and lifetime) without one! 

Black bear sow and her cub in Yosemite National Park in California.


Miscellaneous Facts:

While the weight of brown, grizzly, and Kodiak bears differ greatly, they are all born as 1-lb cubs.

Black bears live to an approximate 20 years of age and can run 30 miles an hour. 

"Hyperfascia" is a period brown bears go through late in the season just before hibernation when they eat nearly everything in sight in preparation for their long winter snooze. 

When bears hibernate, they’re not asleep. The heart rate of a bear slows to about 10 beats per minute, rendering them in a comatose state. They lose 40% of their body weight during that time. Boars (adult males) are usually the last to go into hibernation because they need to pack on the most weight. 

According to the National Park Service, there are more bears estimated to live on the Alaskan Peninsula than people. 

More people are killed by moose than bear each year in Alaska.

Bears are not social animals within their species, but are tolerant of one another so long that everyone has enough to eat.

Bears are actually very good swimmers but they tend to avoid it unless making a water crossing, like this coastal brown bear is doing at Katmai. 

Bears are good swimmers but it leaves them vulnerable. They typically avoid it unless they need to make a water crossing. 

Bears' only real predators are other bears. 

Sows (mother bears) need to eat enough to be able to nurse cubs in their first couple of years, as well as to survive herself through hibernation. This is why, when food is scarce, they become more aggressive with humans and other animals. 

Bear cubs stay with mama for three years then she chases them off. Young siblings who are newly are their own are called "juveniles," and they usually pal around until they figure out how to manage  then they break apart and go out on their own.

When bears come out of hibernation, they take some time to reintroduce food into their diet, eating quite slowly. It's similar to a human fasting  you don't go straight for a cheeseburger, you start with some broth.

Bears birth their cubs while hibernating in January or February.


 

As always in the American wilderness, your safety and livelihood is your own responsibility and yours alone. It is vital to learn the area that you are exploring and also how to act while there to ensure a safe and enjoyable time in the U.S. National Parks. 

The Alaska Highway

The road to Alaska as seen on the Alaska Highway, once known as "The Alcan" (a mesh of Alaska-Canada.) This main vein travels from Dawson Creek in British Columbia and ends in Fairbanks, Alaska. And then, there's the everything that's in between... 

To begin the Alaska leg of our journey, we first needed to get there. We could fly, though that method isn’t in keeping with our goal to experience the Greatest American Road Trip. We could ferry Wally the Airstream from Washington State northbound through the Inside Passage, a very popular option for the beautiful scenery along the northern Pacific Coast that it provides. Or we could travel the Alaskan Highway—a highway of dreams for road trippers. The two-lane highway winds 1,520 miles from Dawson Creek in British Columbia (about 825 miles northeast of Seattle) to Fairbanks, Alaska. It is perhaps one of the most beloved routes to take to get into the great state of Alaska, also known as The Last Frontier.

The roadway is widened in 1942 with a caterpillar tractor. Credit: Wikipedia.

The Alaska Highway was built in 1942 as a result of the bombing of Pearl Harbor the year before. The American government and military feared an overland invasion by the Japanese of the Aleutian Islands, which sits just 1,000 miles across the Pacific Ocean from Japan. American engineers planned and constructed the Alaska-Canadian Military Highway to provide a main vein from the contiguous United States into Alaska if Japanese forces entered in on foot. It was then called the Alcan Highway – The Alcan, a conjunction of Alaska-Canada.  

Rugged beauty aligns the entire path along the Alaska Highway. 

The highway is known for its ruggedness—at one time the unpaved road had wild turns, steep grades up to 25%, and dirt and gravel breaks that would kick up thick clouds of dust, quashing visibility and revealing cracks in car windshields after the dust had settled. It is still rugged (sure enough, we got a crack in our windshield that remains today); though times have changed for the storied highway. Engineers have been working to improve it continuously since the mid-20th century to benefit travelers, and to improve the time-distance continuum for truckers bringing supplies into Alaska. Today, it is today almost entirely paved. 

American Bison on the side of the road. Talk about wild. Driving this highway was like being on safari. 

It took us four days driving 12-hour stretches to make our way from North Cascades National Park in Washington to Skagway, Alaska, from where we would fly by bush plane to hit our first park in Alaska: Glacier Bay. For most, traveling the highway and exploring the vicinity is the adventure itself and endures on average seven to ten days. At waypoints, there are museums, restaurants, historic gold rush sites, and wilderness areas ripe for fisherman, paddlers, hikers, and campers.

As mentioned before, we pushed through the area quickly… but there is no love lost; we experienced many amazing things along the way. We saw countless black bear, bison (the most beastly of all animals, they are huge!), caribou, moose, stone sheep and incredible bird life. Vast rivers roll right alongside the highway, impeccably clear and vibrant in color, and all around is this incredible wilderness totally unique to the region. And best of all for us during this very long and logistically intense adventure: there are no off-ramps, no choices to be made of which way to go, the road just travels on endlessly through beautiful stretches of western Canada, the Yukon Territory, arriving finally in Alaska. People often ask us when we get to enjoy off-time this year, and we really don't to be perfectly honest – but on long drive days we have a chance to talk, listen to music and podcasts, and read about upcoming parks on our itinerary.

So with that, onto Alaska! With eight of the most remote national parks in the system, it's about to get wild. First up: Glacier Bay

Giving Wally the Airstream the ride of his life! 

"Yield to Bison" – this sign and what it represents is reason alone to travel the Alaska Highway!

Tips for travelers on the Alaska Highway:

·      MILEPOST is considered the bible for road trippers traveling the Alaska Highway. It is the most comprehensive tool for planning and navigating that there is, offering four basic routes as a starting point to work from, and providing details on everything in between. 

·      There are nearly 2,000 kilometers (kilometers, remember, half of the road is in Canada) between the starting point at Dawson Creek and the end point in Fairbanks. The best advice we got and can pay forward is to fuel up nearly every time you see a gas station – even if you are full 3/4 of a tank. You never know when gas stations along the route will be closed for any number of reasons, as we found to be true on our overland journey.  

·      Make sure you have a full tank of wiper fluid. While the highway is mostly paved, there are still gravel breaks that will cloud up your windshield in an instant. Not only is this a hazard in seeing other motorists, but wildlife is everywhere – and you don’t want to be the person to hit an endangered bison or any other wild creature. 

Wally strikes a pose near the start of the Alaska Highway in Dawson Creek, British Columbia. 

Wally strikes a pose near the start of the Alaska Highway in Dawson Creek, British Columbia. 

·      Because there are few services on the highway, including emergency services, stopping to offer help to failed motorists is generally the right thing to do if you are in a position to offer assistance. Karma baby!

·      Even with big advances improving the highway, bringing not one, but two spare tires is still recommended as services along the highway can be fleeting, and it is doubtful they will pop up exactly when you need them.

Stef is dwarfed beneath a collection of some 30,000 road signs that can be found at the Sign Post Forest in the Watson Lake area of the Yukon Territory.

·      If starting your adventure at the official starting point in Dawson Creek, B.C., make a stop at the symbolic sign post. When we were there to catch photo ops with Wally the Airstream, a car packed with locals drove by and shouted “welcome to Dawson Creek!” It was awesome to receive such a warm welcome before starting out this very intense leg of our journey.

·      Another great stop on the famed Alaska Highway? Check out the Sign Post Forest in the Yukon Territory. With 30,000 signs from all around the world, it one of the finest road trip stops for road sign aficionados. 

Travel Advice From an Isle Royale Local

We’ve just published our page on Isle Royale National Park in Michigan's Upper Peninsula (U.P.), one of the five least visited parks in the system. In the article section we shared some insight from Rolf Peterson, the head of the renowned Wolf and Moose Study; and also Marina Alexander, the island's go-to expert on all things local. We wanted to publish more from our discussions with Marina because we think her knowledge and perspective is invaluable to travelers wanting to visit the island—this is the kind of information that just doesn't exist online... until now.  

Here is what Marina had to say…

Stefanie Payne and Jonathan Irish: This is one of the least visited national parks. What do you think are some of the reasons that is true?

Marina Alexander: I think mostly the distance; the planning is the killer. It’s not a National Park you can drive through; there are extra steps required to access the island and once you arrive.  I understand most National Parks aren’t as easy to get to either, which makes the National Park system so unique itself, but planning to get to Isle Royale requires more thorough planning. But, once you understand the basics of the boat schedules and locations, the hardest part is over. Because it is so unique, so untouched and because it is the least visited, it is a gem to those who know of it. There are many people who return because of the community they feel when living "island life": you're uninhibited in the most unexpected ways, while also limited in other ways, too. Plus, Isle Royale has a lot to offer all different kinds of people: you can experience a rugged and unrelenting wilderness in the backwoods, or you can relax in quiet solitude. 

 

S.P. & J.I. The park is open only from May-September each year. That's a short season. Is there a time that you think is the best on the island?

M.A. I’m going to break this one down for each kind of visitor:

Lodge Guests: I am biased because I think the whole season is a good time to stay at the lodge. July and August are usually a lot warmer (especially by August) and the weather seems to stabilize to summer, at least for a little bit. By that time the lake has warmed up (keep in mind it’s still Lake Superior, so by warmed up, I mean it’s not going to put you in a complete shock should you jump in!). All the summer foliage has grown in, and the berries are ripe. The downside of this time is that the bugs are usually rampant; however, if you’re staying in the lodge, you’re on the water just enough to allow the breeze to blow them away and allow you some relief. This also seems to be a good time of the summer for the Northern Lights.

Backpackers: May, June, and September. These months are a little cooler, which makes a long hike just a little more enjoyable as you won’t be dying of heat along the Greenstone or Minong Ridges. The bugs aren’t as bad, and the campsites aren’t as crowded. 

Boaters: July and August. The water is perfect for fishing this time of year at the surface, and it’s not too warm so even if you’re just fishing from a canoe, you should have pretty good luck. The weather usually holds pretty well during this time of year as well. 

 

S.P. & J.I. There are several routes to get there from both Michigan and Minnesota. Can you outline them quickly with a few thoughts on what is best for what kind of traveler?

M.A. One thing to keep in mind is that each boat comes and goes on different days, and some have different schedules depending on peak season, so when planning a trip to Isle Royale, you really have to be flexible with your days as you decide which transportation line fits best with your comfort, budget, timeline, and purpose. 

Ranger III, Houghton, MI.- Comes to Isle Royale Tuesdays and Fridays, and returns to mainland the following day on Wednesday and Saturdays. The boat ride is six hours. This is a smooth boat ride (weather permitting!), it gives you plenty of rest before your big trip, and on the return trip you get back to mainland at 3 p.m., which gives you a great start to your next adventure!

Isle Royale Queen IV, Copper Harbor, MI.- Comes to Isle Royale different days during week, during different times of the day. This is the fastest boat to Rock Harbor at just three hours one way. This boat schedule offers a little bit more flexibility to every visitor, as it eventually runs every day during peak season. This is great for backpackers, people who just want to stay a couple nights and those who only have time to visit Isle Royale for the day. Their complete schedule is posted on their website.

Voyageur II & Sea Hunter, Grand Portage, Minnesota- The Voyageur II is a great boat to see the whole island as it circumnavigates Isle Royale. On Monday, Wednesdays, and Saturdays the Voyageur II departs Grand Portage, makes a quick stop at Windigo, then takes the north shore of the island to Rock Harbor, making a couple stops along the way. It overnights in Rock Harbor, then takes the south shore back to Windigo for another quick stop and then back to Grand Portage. It is about a 6 hour boat ride, but it like I said before, it’s a great way to see the whole island, especially if you plan on coming from Minnesota’s side. The Sea Hunter makes trips to Windigo only. 

Isle Royale Seaplanes, Houghton, MI.- The seaplane is such a great way to arrive at Isle Royale: not only does it take a fraction of the time (about 45 minutes) but the views from above are amazing. It will really add to your perspective to how big and beautiful not only Isle Royale is but Lake Superior as well. 

Our ride to Isle Royale with Isle Royale Seaplanes.

Our ride to Isle Royale with Isle Royale Seaplanes.

I would like to emphasize here that all the towns where these ferries come from are such unique places with great people and each have a lot to offer for your trip too, so don’t be in such a hurry to and from the area!  I would also like to say that the transportation lines play a huge part in our operation at the lodge, and if they didn’t do their jobs so well, we wouldn’t be in business. I cannot recommend one over the other because they all have the best captains (and pilots) and crew to navigate Lake Superior so well on even the worst days. 

 

S.P. & J.I. Isle Royale is one of the more expensive national parks to travel to. This is a two-parter: why is it so expensive, and how can guests save a little money while on the island?

M.A. As you know well, Isle Royale isn’t an easy park to get to, and it takes a lot of planning. This is true not only for your visit but also the operation on such a remote place. Think about the journey you had to make to get there; that is what it takes to acquire every single item we use to provide service to our guests, including the price it takes to power the island with electricity and to provide water. 

One way to save money, especially for families, is to rent a housekeeping cabin (each unit sleeps up to 6), and bring food during your stay. The cabins have a small kitchen unit, with a stove top, microwave, and refrigerator. Bring a cooler full of food that you can refresh with ice from the store to keep in your cabin, and bring any canoes or kayaks your family owns. Of course, the lodge has two restaurants we welcome all park visitors to, as well as a marina that has canoes and kayaks to rent as well. Proper planning can really stretch your dollar. 

Exterior of a Housekeeping Cabin at the Rock Harbor Lodge in Isle Royale.

 

S.P. & J.I. This is an unusual national park in terms that guests, in some cases, interface with you before they do with the National Park Service. Do you have any advice for visitors to help them start planning their adventure as soon as they arrive (that is, if they miss a visit to the park Visitor Center)?

M.A. The lodge really does have a lot to offer guests whether they are backpacking or staying with us. My suggestion before they even leave is to check out our website, rockharborlodge.com and view the tour boat schedule, the water taxis and fishing charters we have available for guests. My favorite suggestion to lodge guests is to order a sack lunch from the Greenstone Grill, arrange a water taxi in the Lodge Office to go to Daisy Farm, and hike the seven miles back. Along the way back to Rock Harbor, you can hike up to the Mount Ojibway tower and Mount Franklin; the views of Canada and the North Shore of the island from those spots are amazing. For backpackers who are just getting off the boat, a water taxi soon after you arrive to the island is a good way to get a head start and get first pick on campsites with a chance to see the island in a different way as you cruise around the island. The lodge also has canoes to rent for those adventurous and ambitious enough to portage around the island. Even if you aren’t as ambitious to carry a canoe on the rugged trails, our water taxis can transport canoes or kayaks, so we can drop you off for a few days to camp so you can paddle around the north or south shore, and then we can pick you back up at an arranged spot and time. One thing many people don’t realize they can do is transport their private boats (up to 22 feet) on the Ranger III, from Houghton, MI. Pack some food, pack your boat, rent a housekeeping cabin, and spend the week at your leisure fishing or sightseeing, in a warm cabin with a view to cook that day's catch. One other suggestion is to just ask. I can’t promise that everyone you ask will have all the answers you need, but you can’t live on Isle Royale without enjoying it yourself. Almost every employee, new or old has their favorite spot, or thing to do. 

 

S.P. & J.I. We stayed up all night on several occasions trying to capture photos of the Northern Lights. How often do you have opportunities to see them in a season?

M.A. This season, and the past couple for some reason, have been incredible seasons to view the Northern Lights. It’s the brave and the patient ones who get to see them. They normally come out are 2:00 or 3:00 in the morning. If the prediction is high I’ll set my alarm for 3 a.m. and look out my window; if the sky is clear of clouds, and the moon is at a crest, I’ll make the journey to Tobin Harbor to catch a glimpse. Even if the lights aren’t out, I would suggest to every park visitor to set their alarm to get up in the middle of the night at least one night of their stay to just enjoy Isle Royale and all it has to offer at every hour. Those nights where the sky is packed full of stars, the water is so clear the reflection of the stars is hard to distinguish at the horizon line, with loons crying in the distance are my favorite. Even if the stars aren’t out very much or a storm is blowing in, I still think it’s nice to walk around and listen to the waves crash on the rocks, to the wind howl. On foggy nights you can hear a freighter's fog horns in the distance. Every night on Isle Royale has just as much to offer to your experience as the day time does. One thing I do every night before I go to bed is look across the big lake for the opposing lighthouse lights flashing in the night. The more lights you see, the better the next day will be. 

The Aurora Borealis glow over the northwest side of the island in 2016.  

 

S.P. & J.I. It stays light so late there, in May, sunset was at 10pm or later. What are the beauties if that, and what are the faults?

M.A. Coming from someone who works 8+ hours a day, having the sunset at near 10 p.m. makes the day seem twice as long. It’s like having two days in one. I think it’s great. I can put in a full day's worth of work, and still have plenty of daylight to go for a hike, pick berries, sun bathe, kayak, etc. My favorite part is being able to do all those things and still hop in a boat and throw some lines in the water while watching the sunset. 

As told by a 20 year old, I don’t see many faults in that… But I know a lot of our guests are a bit older, and may want to enjoy the sunset, or even the stars, without having to stay up super late. 

 

S.P. & J.I. You know this island like the back of your hand. This is a funny question because 99.9% of the island is wilderness, but are there any off-the-beaten trail locations that you are willing to share?

M.A.

It’s not a matter of if I’m willing to share, it’s more of a matter of trying to explain how to get there. It’s also a funny question too because Isle Royale is the least visit National Park, so all the trails are hardly worn. Hiking Isle Royale is incredible because in some parts of the summer you can go hiking for miles without seeing anyone.

 

S.P. & J.I. Your boat captains are simply amazing. Their knowledge and decisiveness made us feel incredibly safe while exploring (sometimes) rough waters. You are becoming a sea captain as well—can you share your thoughts about what it takes to navigate the waters of Lake Superior?

M.A. I am not becoming a captain; I am a captain as of March 2016! You asked offline about what it was like growing up with a large collective of mostly males, and I have them in large part to thank. I was once called the “captain’s apprentice” after I successfully captained a fishing charter where we caught 12 Lake Trout—one being over 20 pounds. Of course, I have a lot to learn and I owe much of my knowledge to all those “males” who took the time to teach me all that it takes to be a captain on Lake Superior. The waters around Isle Royale, and Lake Superior in general, are not easy to navigate, especially when the winds pick up, when the fog rolls in, and when the risk of a freighter in the vicinity looms over you. It takes a lot of patience and understanding of the nature of the lake and Isle Royale’s rocky reefs and shoreline. You have to pay close attention to all of your resources, what you can see, your GPS, your depth finder, and your radar. I, along with every captain on Lake Superior, have plenty of stories of when times got a little hairy, but you also have to keep calm, and take things slow. 

 

S.P. & J.I. Can you share with us a little of your background, and how you came to know Isle Royale so well? 

M.A. Isle Royale is my second home. My dad is the General Manager of Rock Harbor Lodge and has been for the last 25 years. I have spent the entirety of my every summer on Isle Royal; it would be hard to not know "the island" (as it is affectionately referred to by my family) by now. Isle Royale was the best backyard to share with my big brother and sister. That’s the most rewarding part about growing up on Isle Royale to me. They are the reason I know so much about the island-- true partners in crime. We seldom had babysitters who wanted to return to watch three adventurous kids on a rocky island. I think I was 8 when my parents bought us our first family kayak, and of course we still fight over who gets to use it. When I was 10 we got our very own motorboat (an old outboard boat with a 9.9 horsepower engine). Sometime between those summers I learned how to clean fish. At 14, I started deck handing on fishing charters, and when I was 18, I became a certified scuba diver on Isle Royale. I came to know the island so well because I had a lot of people there to show me and teach me how to enjoy it. 

 

S.P. & J.I. What was it like to grow up driving boats, exploring abandoned fisheries, and living among a large collective of mostly males on Isle Royale?

M.A. It was pretty exciting, and it still is. There’s so much to explore on Isle Royale that it never gets old. We have been lucky to grow up among a community of people whose families are tied to the island's history: the Gales, the Merritts, the Johnsons, the Mattsons—and others are our island family and I can't imagine our time spent on the island without their presence. Living among a large collection of males was never really something that got in my way; I never even really thought about until recently. Growing up I had such awesome female “island” role models. My sister, for one, taught me how to stand up for myself, especially out there when boy scouts exude their "boys will be boys" arrogance when we hike, camp, and fish. My mom not only balanced raising three kids on a remote island, but she also shoulders a lot of responsibility to the business and provides support to our family; she is such a great mom to us and wife to my dad. My grandmother, who actually worked on the Ranger III for 19 years, not only taught me independence, but she also taught me how to play gin rummy. It was only years later that I found out how great of a poker player she was; people will still ask about her chili recipe. She served a family favorite on that boat all those seasons. The historic culture is unique and a wonderful insight to the region's history, but the cultural presence is still very much alive, and I find it a shame that it is reserved for only male boaters. There are many great stories of many interesting men who lived on the island, but what gets you through the long and lonely summers on Isle Royale is the community of family that isolation creates from many diverse backgrounds and demographics.

The Sandy tied up for the night at the Rock Harbor Lodge. This is your ship-guide around the island, operated by some of the finest captains in the national parks..it's not easy navigating the turbulent waters of Lake Superior! 

You can see Marina and her family running the show each summer at the Rock Harbor Lodge. Just head to the north side of the island, you can’t miss it.

The Wolves and Moose of Isle Royale

Bushwhacking with Rolf Peterson in search of Isle Royale's famed moose!

Isle Royale National Park is home to the longest continuous study of any predator-prey system in the world. There, researchers have documented the lives of the wolves and moose that inhabit the island for more than five decades. From the study website: As predator and prey, their lives and deaths are linked in a drama that is timeless and historic

To learn more, we spent a day in the field with Rolf Peterson, the leading authority on wolves and moose. Not surprisingly, he knew the best place to spot moose and was able to fill us in on some of the details regarding their behaviors.

Rolf Peterson shows us around what is lovingly referred to as "The Boneyard."

This is what Mr. Peterson had to say to some of our burning questions:

Stefanie Payne and Jonathan Irish What kind of research are you conducting in Isle Royale and how has it evolved since you started working there? 

Rolf Peterson – the original objective of the research in 1958 has changed little – to understand the role of the wolf in the Isle Royale ecosystem. There are plenty of ways that it has gotten more detailed and emphasis has shifted from time to time, but the core objective is the same.

 

S.P. & J.I. What characteristics do wolves and moose have that continue to fascinate you?  

R.P.  Each species is wonderfully adapted to their particular niche, which for wolves means finding and killing vulnerable prey animals, and for moose, avoiding wolves and other predators. Discovering and learning from others about the nuanced ability of predator and prey to live and prosper provides for boundless fascination.

A moose savoring aquatic grasses.

S.P. & J.I. With only two wolves living on the island today, far fewer than what lived there many years ago, the topic of wolf reintroduction is an ongoing debate. As I understand it, you believe that predators of moose (wolves) must exist on the island. Others believe that nature should run its course. Could you share with us some of your thoughts that are more specific as to the benefits of an increased wolf population? 

R.P. Science stretching back decades reveals that wolf predation is essential to maintaining a healthy moose population that lives within the limits of its environment, with further influences on enhancing viability for many other species. It is no more complicated than that. For some wilderness purists, the only thing that seems to matter is that humans pretend to stay out of the picture.

 

S.P. & J.I. How is it that you came to live and word in the historic Bangsund Cabin and who does it belong to? 

R.P. Use of Bangsund Cabin is provided for in a formal cooperative agreement between the National Park Service (NPS) and Michigan Tech University, an arrangement which formalized the “hand-shake” agreement of the 1960s, 1970s, and much of the 1980s. The cabin is the property of the NPS. 

 

S.P. & J.I. It's clear that Candy plays an integral role in the wolf/moose research program. If you (or she) wouldn't mind sharing, what are some of the things she is working on?  

R.P. She has finished writing her second book, but she keeps fine-tuning that while figuring out how and where it will be published. Also, she is the “soul” of the research for many park visitors who treasure the time she spends with them. That means over 2,000 visitors this year.

 

S.P. & J.I. How can people learn more about the study and contribute to further research?

R.P.  They can follow the project on Facebook “Wolves and Moose of Isle Royale” and on our website www.isleroyalewolf.org.

 

S.P. & J.I. As a professor and author, I'm sure you have some recommended reading about Isle Royale. Care to name a few resources? 

R.P. For those with an interest in wolf-moose research, there is “The Wolves of Isle Royale – A Broken Balance” by yours truly, and “A View from the Wolf’s Eye” by Carolyn Peterson.  Plenty of other titles at www.irkpa.org.

Researchers collect and survey moose antler and skulls as part of the study.

You can meet Rolf and Candy every summer at the Bangsund Cabin near the Edisen Fishery. Ask anyone on the island where to find them and theyll be able to direct you there.

The Centennial Cocktail

The Centennial Cocktail, created by Stefanie Payne and Jonathan Irish to celebrate the centennial anniversary of the U.S. National Park Service on August 25, 2016.

First and most importantly, happiest 100th birthday to the National Park Service (NPS)To commemorate the centennial — which inspired us to hit the road this year in the first place — we put our mixology skills to the test to create a specialty cocktail inspired by the great outdoors. It is called The Centennial Cocktail, a spin on two mixed drinks that were born right here in the USA: the Rickey and the Tom Collins.

The Rickey is typically made with gin (though it was originally made with whiskey), a squeeze of a half a lime which garnishes the bottom of the glass, and a fill of club soda. It was created in Washington DC's first dive bar, called Shoomaker’s  where the National Park Service was formed (in the District, that is, not the bar.)  The Tom Collins is made with gin, sugar, lemon juice, and a soda fill with a cherry garnish. It was designed in 1876 by Jerry Thomas, “the father of American Mixology.”

For The Centennial Cocktail, we went with the original base liquor of the Rickey: whiskey. We like rye, though you could easily substitute bourbon should you choose to. Instead of soda, we opted for hard cider — apple, after all, might as well be our national fruit. Taste-wise, it has the fizz and tartness we were looking for without adding too much acid. Our garnishes a sour cherry, orange twist, and mint leaf represent the berries that feed our wildlife; the penetrating sun that turns the seasons; and all plant and tree life in our nation's wilderness places (respectively.)   

We’d hoped to pour this drink into NPS Centennial glassware, but a bumpy road had other ideas for their longevity. So we’ll make due with these fine plastic tumblers that we found somewhere along the long road to park #38.   

Cheers to all who are celebrating with us today and to the Park Service for helping to protect America’s wild places for a century.  

 

The Centennial Cocktail

3 oz. American rye whiskey

1.oz hard cider float

2 drops sour cherry juice

Garnishes: sour cherry, orange zest, and mint leaf

Cubed ice

Rocks glass

Pour 3 oz. of whisky into rocks glass, fill with ice. Pour a cider float on top. Add two drops of sour cherry juice. Twist orange zest to release oils, rub on glass rim. Wrap zest around a sour cherry and secure with a toothpick. Add a mint leaf to top and serve.   

 

P.S. It just occurred to us after the first sip that this is a very potent drink! As always, sip responsibly. 


 

Copyright © 2016 | The Great American Road Trip | #59in52

100 Years & 100 Adventures

If you or anyone around you ever feels bored, know that there are at least 100 ways to entertain yourself in America’s National Parks  we can prove it. Outlined below is a small snapshot of experiences we've had in our parks this year ... 100 of them in honor of the centennial anniversary of the Park Service ... just a pinky-toe dip in an ocean of wilderness!

Celebrate 100 years of National Parks in America by sharing a story from them that is meaningful to you on FindYourPark.org and don't forget to tag #FindYourPark on social media. 

A sample of 100 experiences we've had in 37 national parks this year...ordered below as can be seen line by line, left to right. 

1.    Gear up and go for a hike

2.   Gaze at the moon

3.   Come face to face with American wildlife

4.   Go birding!

5.    Kayak through canyons

6.    Drive through a mountain

7.    Share a moment

8.    Find your solitude

9.    Snap a photo

10.  Goof off

11.   Play in sand dunes beneath pink sky

12.   Encounter unusual installation art

13.   Find your relaxness

14.   Ride a mule

15.   Enter the underworld

16.   Share a picnic

17.    See a rare spring superbloom

18.    Learn about mysterious scientific phenomena

19.   See the world’s oldest living thing, the Bristlecone pine tree!

20.   Capture the perfect shot

21.     Stand upon a dried up ancient lake bed

22.    Hike through waterfalls

23.   Walk to the bottom of the grandest of canyons

24.   Create visual art

25.    Experience historic hot springs

26.   Climb to the states’ highest rooftops

27.     Tackle a monster trail

28.    Walk through a covered bridge

29.    Celebrate amazing geology

30.    Go fishing in the river

31.      Kayak through mangrove trees

32.     Laugh

33.     Relive old memories

34.     Create new memories

35.      Fly a kite

36.      Seek the unusual

37.       Go exploring in the world’s largest cave system

38.      See things in a new way

39.      Sit in a meadow

40.     Relax on the water

41.       Jump through the air

42.     Catch the rare Yosemite moonbow

43.     Greet the sunrise

44.     Go for a drive

45.     Come together

46.     Capture star trails

47.      Try out new gear

48.   Hop on a boat with the NPS

49.     Compose a moment

50.     Pack up your pals and go for a walk

51.       Drive into the clouds

52.      See the milky way galaxy

53.      Learn about native American history

54.      Build a snowperson

55.       See petroglyphs

56.       Sit in the surf

57.        Witness iconic places

58.       Eat a great local meal

59.       Go ice climbing

60.       Learn from a National Park Service ranger

61.        See 225-year-old petrified wood

62.       Hike to iced-over waterfalls

63.       Wander through ancient cyprus forests

64.      Go crabbing

65.       Camp on the beach

66.       Look at the stars

67.        Explore waterfalls

68.       Photograph wildlife

69.       Make something

70.       Watch the sea

71.         Fish for halibut

72.        Drive the great roads

73.        Stand up paddle in icy fjords

74.        Build a campfire

75.       Paddle on a mirrored lake

76.       Learn your outdoor gear

77.        Cross something off of your bucket list

78.        Fly in a sea place

79.       Shrink beneath the giant sequoia trees

80.      Walk in the woods

81.     Sit on the side of a mountain with wildflowers

82.       Let wildlife take your breath away in the best possible way

83.       Explore the oceans

84.       Canoe epic waterways

85.       Read inspiring books

86.       Capture quiet moments

87.        Cross foot bridges

88.        Backpack the High Sierras

89.        Explore by way of houseboat

90.       Sleep in the wilderness

91.         Drive through a tree

92.        Stand on historic Route 66

93.       Travel by bush plane

94.       Step onto the beach

95.       Take in the sunset

96.    Ride bikes with your posse

97.       Watch the sunset in the American southwest

98.      Climb a rock, THE rock

99.      Jump for joy

100.  #FindYourPark

The Yosemite Moonbow

The rare Yosemite Moonbow captured in May, 2016, at Lower Yosemite Falls. Photo credit: Jonathan Irish

When all the elements come together — clear skies, heavy water flow, time of year, moon phase, etc. — there's an event at Lower Yosemite Falls called a "moonbow." We were thrilled to be able to witness it in May. It happens only a couple of times a year and can be witnessed in only a handful of places on Earth—the others being in Wiamea on the Big Island of Hawaii, Victoria Falls on the Zambia/Zimbabwe border, and at Plitvice Lakes National Park in Croatia.

John Muir called the nighttime event seen by the light of the full moon at Yosemite "lunar spraybows"... the folks at NASA might like to call them by their technical name, "lunar rainbows." They are also called "white rainbows," as they appear a ghostly white color to the naked eye. The refracted color is then brought out through long-exposure photography, which is what you will see in photos like the one Jonathan captured that is shown on this page. One thing that can be agreed upon is that they are rare and wonderful, and although they have been mentioned as far back as 350 BC by Aristotle, there is still little known about them. 

Moonbows are far rarer than rainbows because weather and astronomical conditions must be exactly right for them to be created. Earth's moon must be very low to the horizon and must be full, or near full. The sky must be very dark. And finally, water droplets must be present in the air in the opposite direction of the moon. The location at Lower Yosemite Falls and the mist that is naturally created there makes it a prime viewing location.

We ventured to the falls at 11pm during the new moon in May and met with a small group of photographers also hip to the phenomenon. Stefanie left her camera behind, opting to simply savor the experience while catching an unusually bright Saturn and Mars in the night sky. Jonathan photographed the moonbow for the second time at this location, and this was the result:

The Yosemite Moonbow, May, 2016. Credit: Jonathan Irish

Airstreaming 101: Things We've Learned as Newbie RV-ers

We knew virtually nothing about RVing when we set out in January as full-time RVers and needless to say, we have learned a lot. This article is partially tips for newbies who happen upon this site by way of search engine, and partially cheeky anecdotes about lessons we've learned from Wally the Airstream and RVing in general for those who maybe don't plan to become full-time RVers, but are interested in this aspect of our project. 

Towing

In retrospect, we would have purchased a more powerful tow vehicle to tote Wally. We bought a Ford Expedition knowing that we plan to keep the car at years’ end, and we didn’t really want a pick-up truck. We had the opportunity to tow the Airstream Pendleton with a Ford F150 Limited Edition a couple of weeks ago and the difference in power is noticeable. We love our Expedition though, and it keeps chugging along… thank god. 

A rear-video-monitor is a must.

Walkie-talkies come in real handy when backing up the Airstream. There is a microphone on the back of the Airstream too that carries sound from the rear into the drivers seat. We like the walkie-talkies though, because we get to use our code names: Sassafras (she) and Whisky (he).

 

Jon doing what we like to call, "The Dump Dance."

Jon doing what we like to call, "The Dump Dance."

Operations

Disposable latex gloves are your best friend.

While on that topic, we learned from Airstream mechanics all sorts of things about the black water tank... Dump >> fill with cleaner and a few bowls full of water >> use RV TP (+ don't discard foreign objects in toilet = happier dumping. (For those who don't know, black water is human waste, and grey water is liquid from the kitchen and bathroom sink, and shower.)

Propane heats water more quickly than electric does. The furnace eats propane like there's no tomorrow in cold weather and propane can cost quite a lot of money -- plan for that expense if hitting up cold weather locations.

The heat pump doesn't heat below 40 degrees so far as we can tell...

This side panel is the brains of your hookup operation.

This side panel is the brains of your hookup operation.

If it's freezing outside, leave the water running in the kitchen sink at a trickle to prevent frozen hose/pipes. We learned this the hard way in a winters stay in Shenandoah National Park, Mammoth Cave National Park, Cuyahoga Valley National Park…so far this year.

Don't park next to RV's running generators to avoid carbon monoxide poisoning. Waking up at 3 in the morning on our first long drive/rest stop experience to carbon monoxide alarms was, well, alarming. Thankfully, we had CoachNet 24/7 Airstream roadside assistance to walk us through the what-to-do next. The what-to-do was to move locations.  

Airstream forums are great for anything part or function related, and for general advice from Airstream owners.

Closing awnings when it's windy outside prevents them from breaking. Tilting the awning when it’s raining prevents the canvas from caving beneath the weight of collected water. Move out of the way when closing it after a rain so you don't get an unexpected freezing outdoor shower. 

  

Where and How to Stay

Most RV parks offer discounted rates if you ask, are members of camp collectives, and/or look on the website in advance. If you are going to hit the road with an RV, become a member of Good Sam and KOA.

Our favorite RV mobile app is AllStays -- huge find! Not only are RV and tent sites all over the country listed (with details, pictures, and reviews), but also listed are travel centers, gas stations, overnight parking locations, stores like REI and Walmart, and other necessities for those living on the road. This app isn’t just great for RVers, any camper and outdoorsman should load this app. (Note: this is in no way a paid endorsement, just a happen-upon that we love.) 

Our back-in campsite in Saguaro National Park.

Our back-in campsite in Saguaro National Park.

You can park overnight for free in many state parks, public lands, rest stops, and in the parking lot at some Walmarts and Cracker Barrel restaurants. Again, the AllStays mobile app will tell you where you can camp out free of charge. 

In most RV sites, there are “back-in” camping sites, and “pull-throughs”. Pull-throughs are great for overnight stays and quick morning getaways. Back-ins are great for longer stays because they generally offer more privacy.

  

Staying Connected

Working on the road is the lifeblood of this project. With Vinli hooked in to our car, we are able to get wifi hotspots as we trudge on down the road. 

Working on the road is the lifeblood of this project. With Vinli hooked in to our car, we are able to get wifi hotspots as we trudge on down the road. 

Generally speaking, wifi sucks at campgrounds. The best remedies we have found have been to ask campground management for use of the business-use hotspot. And when you get fed up with that not always being a possibility, buy a Wifi Ranger!!

The best cell phone boosting device that we have found is weBoost. Don’t bother trying to tether 4G from your phone to your computer. Especially if you have ATT. Just don’t even bother.

To get work done on the road, try Vinli, a 4G mobile hotspot for your car. 

Wine, veggies, dinner time! This could be any kitchen anywhere in the world but it is inside our 27-foot Airstream International travel trailer in the middle of nowhere. Airstreaming is not really what you might call "roughing it."

Wine, veggies, dinner time! This could be any kitchen anywhere in the world but it is inside our 27-foot Airstream International travel trailer in the middle of nowhere. Airstreaming is not really what you might call "roughing it."

 Lifestyle

You need about 1/3 of the crap you think you will need while full-time RVing. Clothes, kitchen utensils, personal care products—you will just rue the day you thought you needed that extra pair of shoes, martini shaker, and Crest Whitestrips… do as you would smartly do when packing for any epic trip: lay out everything you think you will need and pack only 1/3 of it. Consider that you will acquire things along the way and have to clean and do laundry. We're about to take a monster trip to GoodWill ourselves. In retrospect, we do wish we had brought along the slow-cooker.  

Flamingoes are a big thing in RV parks. Also a big thing in the RV community (AKA, The Peanut Gallery) is opinions on parking, camping, and general existence. Other RVers are your traveling family, though, and are always happy to lend a hand or a word of advice. This can be the best thing in the world, and can be a nuisance, but it has helped us out more than once already this year. Play nice with your neighbors, we are learning this time and time again. 

Airstream restoration is a really big thing. Want to geek out on Airstream culture and design? Check out Airstream Addicts on Facebook. Want to see our Airstream life? See our gallery page.

You can cook and eat anything to your hearts content in an Airstream. We have a full-size kitchen, gas stove, and a microwave. The oven is still a mystery. Have a look around the inside of our Airstream with Virtual Reality—all you need is a computer to navigate a 360 view.


We hope this is interesting and/or useful. Happy trails newbie RVers! 

Pimped out Airstreams abound in this country. We found this restored 1970s beauty at the Great Smoky Mountains (and some cool Airstream Caravan friends too!)

Pimped out Airstreams abound in this country. We found this restored 1970s beauty at the Great Smoky Mountains (and some cool Airstream Caravan friends too!)

Illustration: Everglades National Park in Florida

The more I doodle with the Apple Pencil, the more I think about creating a "collection." I've decided not to, in a general sense. I mean, I plan to create many, many drawings inspired by these adventures in our national parks, but they will most likely not be a cohesive collection. The reason is this: there are too many smart features within the digital art apps I am using to focus on any one style. 

It's rather symbolic as I see it -- every park is so different, and I am a little bit different and newly inspired each time I pick up the Pencil. Line drawings, sketches, pop-style art, watercolor, charcoal -- there are so many different effects to use and I want to explore them all. 

For this illustration I went monochromatic because in my mind's eye of the Everglades, the entire place is washed with blue (although when I envision the mangrove trees, it is washed green.) But I decided on blue because I recall this park most as a vast and calming water-world, and color theory tells me that blue suits that memory. 

Anyway, this is drawing #002 in my haphazard collection. Another to come soon!

— Stefanie